Ô Divin Restaurant

Approaching Divinity

September 26, 2018By Heidi EllisonArchive, Restaurants
Ô Divin restaurant, Paris, 17th arrondissement
Ô Divin restaurant in the 17th arrondissement.

THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED

In the front of Ô Divin, a new restaurant in an out-of-the-way corner of Paris’s 17th arrondissement, is a small deli selling fine wine, cheese, sausages and more. Beyond it is a pretty dining room with bouquets of fresh flowers and a few artworks on the walls – including a large black painting with a red, yellow, white and black star (my dining companion saw it as an abstraction of a man in underpants; see photo below to decide for yourself). 

Ô Divin restaurant, Paris, 17th arrondissement
Artwork at Ô Divin.

He was sorely disappointed because he had accidentally read the dinner menu on the blackboard menu outside on the sidewalk and had his heart set on ordering the ceviche and pigeon. Alas, they were not on the lunch menu (but would surely be worth going back for in the evening). 

Ô Divin restaurant, Paris, 17th arrondissement
Black-pudding terrine.

He is a meat lover and was not tempted by the three choices available for each course, but finally chose the meatiest of them, beginning with, for the starter, the black pudding terrine, which we shared. It was an excellent choice, with the briefly cooked slices of top-quality boudin nice and crispy on the outside and moist and flavorful on the inside. 

Ô Divin restaurant, Paris, 17th arrondissement
Stuffed tomatoes.

The meatiest choice for the main course was the stuffed tomato. The pork filling was brilliantly spiced and the perfectly ripe tomato sat in a pool of tasty spinach sauce. 

Ô Divin restaurant, Paris, 17th arrondissement
Cod with capers and lemon.

I chose the cod, a beautiful piece of fish prepared “Grenoble-style” (with capers and lemon). It was cooked to perfection – juicy, with a pearly sheen – but served with less-than-exciting boiled potatoes and turnips. 

Ô Divin restaurant, Paris, 17th arrondissement
Paris-Brest.

For dessert, we shared a perfect Paris-Brest (chou pastry with praline cream), creamy and rich, rather than the healthier options of sautéed plums with yogurt and granola or melon with ginger sorbet and verbena meringue. 

The set lunch menu here cost only €20 for three courses. The service was pleasant (but not totally present, as the server was also waiting on customers in the deli), and the food prepared by a young woman chef was simple but top-notch. If I lived in the neighborhood, Ô Divin would probably be my canteen, and I hope to go back soon for a presumably divine dinner.

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