January 19, 2010 | By Paris Update | Archive
Everything on the heaping seafood platter is fresh from the brine. If you have a craving for fresh seafood, L’Ecailler du Bistrot is a sure bet. Everything they serve comes straight from the French coast. Gwenaelle Cadoret, who runs the … Read More
January 12, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Prunier’s Art Deco dining room with black marble walls was designed by architect Louis Hippolyte Boileau and artist Léon Carrière. Casting around for words to describe the Prunier experience, I came up with “regal,” aristocratic” and “breeding,” in that order. … Read More
January 5, 2010 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive
Le Petit Curieux is a neighborhood restaurant with good products to eat in or take out. A curious thing has happened each of the three times I have eaten at the restaurant Le Petit Curieux: one dish is so delightful … Read More
December 8, 2009 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
The food at 122 is impeccably prepared. Above: snails in “angel hair” batter. Pros: Great food, well-chosen wines; pleasant, attentive service Cons: Decor a bit Spartan for my taste. Walking into 122, a memory resurfaced of a journalist’s comment about … Read More
December 1, 2009 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Au Petit Riche has been around since 1854. Pros: Fabulous list of Loire wines; quirky layout; pleasant atmosphere Cons: Cooking seems stuck in a rut The last time I set foot in the Petit Riche was about two decades ago, … Read More
November 10, 2009 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Mélac is all about serious food and wine with no frills. Pros: Good food; inexpensive, well-chosen wines Cons: Slightly batty service In one of those eerie strokes of synchronicity, my date had told me, when I suggested … Read More
November 3, 2009 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Soft-boiled eggs contained bits of salmon and mushroom and were topped with egg-white froth. Pros: Quiet, plenty of space, easygoing service (could also be a con if you’re in a hurry) Cons: Slightly uneven food quality Funny, the … Read More
October 27, 2009 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
The menu and decor are on the quirky side at this young-mom-and-pop bistro. Pros: Friendly service, friendly wine list, pleasant surroundings Cons: Rather noisy A mom-and-pop restaurant these days is likely to be run by a couple in their late … Read More
October 13, 2009 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
The food at Ratatouille and Tellus (above) carries on the great tradition of French bourgeois cuisine. Editor’s note (May 2013): Tellus is no longer in business, but Ratatouille is still going strong. It’s very rare that I leave anything on … Read More
September 15, 2009 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
High-quality food, wine and service in an agreeable setting. Pros: Great buzz; comfortable noise levels; pleasant bistro décor (note the tiled floor); great service, discreetly delivered; good food; special wines. Cons: None worth mentioning Another unexpected find, La Boulangerie, … Read More