Amici Miei

October 28, 2008 | By Paris Update | Archive

Pizza Party Pooper The Lu Lioni came with Italian sausage and red peppers. Reader reaction posted Oct. 31, 2008 Last week I took some time out for a long weekend in Florence to visit a friend who is soon to … Read More

Le Cul de Poule

October 21, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Buttering Up Customers It’s not often that everyone in a party of four at a restaurant table (or boudoir-like dining area, but more on that later) goes into ecstasies over the butter, but that was the case the other night … Read More

Taxi Jaune

October 14, 2008 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Yellow Cab Cuisine Cheerful dining with often sublime results. February 2005; updated Oct. 15, 2008 THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED The cheerful Taxi Jaune, located in the wholesale leather-goods section of the Marais (where tourists often fear to tred), has … Read More

L’Arôme

September 30, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

The Sweet Scent of Stardom All the elements of success: gray-beige decor, great food sources, a talented chef and well-schooled staff. It’s getting to be a bit much, all this gray-beige decor. Every aspirational restaurant startup has it. Have those … Read More

Bigarrade

September 23, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Magical Mystery Meal The cooks fashion their mystery menus from unlikely looking ingredients.   There’s an almost Biblical simplicity about the first moves in a meal at Bigarrade. One of the two waiters approaches with a rectangular piece of slate … Read More

A la Chataigne

September 23, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Regional Byways Seasonal berries with a melon-ribbon bow. I take real pleasure in seeing a new restaurant open and take off seemingly effortlessly. A la Chataigne opened earlier this year, but when I was there very recently, it felt as … Read More

Hotaru

September 9, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Simon Says: Don’t Miss It The decor is minimal, the food memorable. Japanese food remains largely terra incognita for me, and I have more than a sneaking suspicion that like other “ethnic” cuisines, Japanese food is dumbed down here for … Read More

Agapé

July 22, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Feast on Friday Even the tableware is well-sourced at Agapé. Agapé. Now there’s a name to conjure with. It refers to the meal, or “love feast,” early Christians ate together after their gatherings. Not far from sherry with the vicar … Read More

La Cagouille

July 15, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Marine Oasis in a Concrete Desert One of Paris’s most appealing terraces. A cagouille is a small snail found in the Charentes region on the Atlantic coast of France, yet the restaurant La Cagouille specializes in fish. Go figure. They … Read More

Itinéraires

July 8, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Going My Way? When have sardine rillettes ever looked so lovely? A new restaurant has opened in my old stomping grounds, the quartier Maubert in Paris’s fifth arrondissement, and is already attracting quite a bit of notice. My own interest … Read More