Gluttony Rewarded Inventive dishes and top-quality ingredients in an enoteca decor. Finding the kind of Italian food in Paris that home-grown Italians would be proud of is no easy task. And I was especially eager to find some after a … Read More
Turkish Delight One of Derya’s amiable waiters on the run. Sometimes, after a very hard day in the coalmine, going home and making a meal can be quite a challenge. Usually there is at least some pasta, garlic and olive … Read More
Crystal-Clear Memories The smiling chefs keep an eye on the clientele and vice versa. Photo © Paris Update “It is an adult’s duty to remember,” opines the central character in Anita Brookner’s Brief Lives, mourning the loss of “primal spontaneity” … Read More
French Lessons Alain Ducasse may have a few things to teach his fellow Frenchmen about running restaurants. At the root of the word “benoît” is the Latin “benedictus,” which means “blessed” or even “happy.” This is an appropriate name for … Read More
Hot and Cold Reception, Pleasure on the Plate The Maison du Jardin doesn’t have its own garden, but it is located near one of Paris’s most beautiful, the Luxembourg Garden. If you are welcomed to La Maison du Jardin by … Read More
A Winner, Front and Back May 9, 2007 Gordon Ramsay, known for his 15 restaurants and very bad language, has an occasional TV series called “Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares,” in which the ubiquitous überchef is invited into a failing restaurant to … Read More
Dear readers, before we proceed to further our acquaintance, I feel the time has come for me to own up to a nerdy addiction to cookery books: I am one of those people (you can add the “sad” yourself, if … Read More
Artful Dining Note: This restaurant is closed. Designer decor in a cavernous setting. A visit to the newly reopened Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris or its neighbor, the trendy contemporary art museum, the Palais de Tokyo, provides … Read More
Fun with the Whole Fish Christian Ghion decorated Pierre Gagnaire’s new restaurant, Gaya. Photo: Jacques Gavard Those who can’t afford to eat at superstar chef Pierre Gagnaire’s three-star restaurant in the Hôtel Balzac can now get an idea of what … Read More
Solid Comfort A place for a cozy, quiet meal of reliable quality. When you’re in the mood for a calm dinner in a warm, cozy, old-fashioned setting with no DJ playing loud music or trendy French youth puffing away on … Read More
