Feast on Friday Even the tableware is well-sourced at Agapé. Agapé. Now there’s a name to conjure with. It refers to the meal, or “love feast,” early Christians ate together after their gatherings. Not far from sherry with the vicar … Read More
Marine Oasis in a Concrete Desert One of Paris’s most appealing terraces. A cagouille is a small snail found in the Charentes region on the Atlantic coast of France, yet the restaurant La Cagouille specializes in fish. Go figure. They … Read More
Going My Way? When have sardine rillettes ever looked so lovely? A new restaurant has opened in my old stomping grounds, the quartier Maubert in Paris’s fifth arrondissement, and is already attracting quite a bit of notice. My own interest … Read More
Slow Food The sign of the snail has been there since 1832. Steeped, as they say, in history, is L’Escargot de Montorgueil, with its signature giant golden snail on the facade. It opened in 1832, just a stone’s throw from … Read More
Pushing the Bottle About The wine’s the thing at Les Papilles. Another one of those places that had been sitting on my list for an age, Les Papilles (it means “taste buds” but has overtones of lip-smacking pleasure, which the … Read More
Tip-top Tucker Hats off and sincere thanks to chef Julien Duboué. Afaria means “dinner” in Basque, apparently, but there’s nothing particularly Basque about this restaurant’s food, methinks, which is a brilliantly personal take on contemporary bistro fare. “Good tucker,” as … Read More
La Lune sous l’Eau A bling-free bistro Orwell would love. George Orwell famously authored 1984, but among the myriad bits of journalism he wrote was a musing that appeared in the London Evening Standard in February 1946, about his favorite … Read More
Well-Bred Critic’s Choice February 15, 2006; updated May 23, 2008 French restaurant critics have a new chouchou. La Ferrandaise, which opened last September, has already been named restaurant of the year 2006 by Claude Lebey’s “Le Petit Lebey 2006 des … Read More
Your Table Is (Not) Ready Although you wouldn’t know it from the photo, ETC is more cramped than Dr. Who’s callbox. © Patrice Schmidt, Paris, Musée d’Orsay You can always tell when a chef who leaves a great house to … Read More
Arabian Weaves a Simple Spell From Michelin stars to simple corner bistro. And another erstwhile Michelin-starred chef opens up a no-frills bistro-style eatery. This time it’s Ghislaine Arabian, who, after a rapid exit from Ledoyen a decade ago, opened up … Read More
