Eating Down Below Al least the basement is brightened with colorful murals. The French trade newspaper L’Hôtellerie Restauration, which advertises such well-known and admired produits du terroir as vacuum-cooked, ready-to-serve poached eggs, ready-made steak tartare preparation, and deep-frozen tutti quanti, … Read More
Pork and Beans Astier’s rustic decor has been refreshed. Ah, memories. I can still remember the sore throat I developed on my first visit to Astier over 20 years ago. There were about six of us in the upstairs room … Read More
This restaurant is now closed. Palatial Treat for The Palate A happy buzz under seahorse-shaped mini-chandeliers. Photo: Paris Update. Be prepared to make a grand entrance when you arrive at the Mini Palais, chef-à-la-mode Gilles Choukroun’s newish restaurant in Paris’s … Read More
Postmodern Blues No complaints about the food, but the service was a big negative. Photo: Bestrestaurantsparis.com “Y’all hurry back now” is one of my favorite Americanisms, but is not one we heard or are ever likely to hear at Café … Read More
Here’s the Beef Le Severo owner William Bernet stands proud in front of his menu. Simplicity and goodness rule at Le Severo. This is the place to go when you crave a big hunk of flavorful beef with a side … Read More
Gluttony Rewarded Inventive dishes and top-quality ingredients in an enoteca decor. Finding the kind of Italian food in Paris that home-grown Italians would be proud of is no easy task. And I was especially eager to find some after a … Read More
Turkish Delight One of Derya’s amiable waiters on the run. Sometimes, after a very hard day in the coalmine, going home and making a meal can be quite a challenge. Usually there is at least some pasta, garlic and olive … Read More
Film Icon Reborn Yet Again Part of the Hôtel du Nord’s cozy dining room. September 14, 2005; updated July 11, 2007 It’s a rare pleasure to see a restaurant get better over time rather than deteriorate, but that is the … Read More
Crystal-Clear Memories The smiling chefs keep an eye on the clientele and vice versa. Photo © Paris Update “It is an adult’s duty to remember,” opines the central character in Anita Brookner’s Brief Lives, mourning the loss of “primal spontaneity” … Read More
Hats Off! For sheer kitsch, the interior can’t be beat, but the food is freshness itself. The large vases of cut flowers are the first thing you notice when you walk into La Grille, followed by the tiny size of … Read More
