Chatomat Revisited

Fine Dining in a Dollhouse

January 11, 2017 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

The tiny 20th-arrondissement restaurant Chatomat is as good as it was when it opened more than five years ago. Sadly, the candlelight our reviewer commented on in 2011 was gone, but the wine was as strong as ever: the 2015 Terre d’Aigles Côtes du Rhône from Domaine Richard we ordered had a 15-percent alcohol content!

La Vague

Niceties of Nikkei Migrate to Paris

December 7, 2016 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants

Strange to say, but until fairly recently Paris’s restaurant scene was rather provincial. If you didn’t want French food, you had to settle for mediocre, dumbed-down Chinese, Japanese, Italian or Indian. Mexican was pretty much nonexistent. The occasional exception was for food from former French colonies in North Africa or Vietnam.

Quinsou

A Rare Bird Spreads Its Wings

November 29, 2016 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants

I thought I had mistaken the address on the restaurant-lined Rue de l’Abbé Grégoire (home to the excellent Cézembre) when I saw the beat-up facade of a café whose salad days were obviously long gone. But no, I was in the right place: a new restaurant called Quinsou.