THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Pros: sharp, seasonal cuisine; wholesome proportions; intriguing wine list; friendly service Cons: rather trendy, characterless mise-en-scène As the annual Nuit Blanche festivities kicked off in more kinetic parts of the city, I ventured to a … Read More
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Pros: fresh food; easygoing, accommodating service; pretty decor; reasonably priced wine Cons: out-of-season asparagus, desserts lacking in oomph At first glance, Le Bien Décidé seems to be a meat-eaters’ paradise – the extremely limited menu … Read More
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Pros: Excellent, friendly service; quality ingredients and mostly good cooking Cons: Some dishes needed work, no fixed-price menu, noisy The service at Le Garde Temps, a railroad-car-shaped restaurant just down the street from the Moulin … Read More
Pros: Tantalizing menu; quality, fresh ingredients; relaxed, charming atmosphere; personable service Cons: Rather unfocused fixed-price menu When my foodie father asked me, across the Skype lines from Florida, “What’s the perfect dish for a hot day?” I floundered, though, to … Read More
Pros: Tip-top ingredients, creative cooking, friendly atmosphere and service, reasonable prices Cons: Rather noisy, uncomfortable stools After enjoying two utterly delightful meals at Frenchie soon after it opened in 2009, I wanted to go back often and introduce friends to … Read More
After a few months of life in a lively university town on the south coast of England, I was distracted by the siren call of Paris and decided, not entirely unwillingly, to heed it (and the request of my editor … Read More
Pros: Fun, cozy, foodie-friendly, great service Cons: None I dined at Les Petits Plats on the same day that I lunched at Septime – yes, it’s a hard life – and loved them both for different reasons. Septime is hip, … Read More
Pros: Eccentric atmosphere, ample portions Cons: Limited seating, solo service After several misses, we found the place: a doll-sized Japanese restaurant nestled on a hill between the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont and Belleville. Ducking through the split noren curtains, we entered … Read More
The stark interior of Septime, in Paris’s 11th arrondissement. Pros: Original ideas; delightful flavor pairings; fresh, high-quality ingredients Cons: Can be noisy I went to Septime knowing nothing at all about it, taken there by a friend whose friend’s daughter … Read More
Chef Christian Etchebest’s justly popular Cantine du Troquet. Pros: super-fresh, high-quality ingredients; friendly, efficient service; lively ambiance Cons: noisy, TV screen At Basque chef Christian Etchebest’s lively and popular La Cantine du Troquet the other night, my dining companion and … Read More
