Le Dauphin

February 1, 2011 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Every dish at Le Dauphin is superbly executed and presented. Photo: ParisUpdate.com Pros: Great food, good wine list Cons: Noisy, cold interior, space at a premium I like marble. I do. A lot. It’s supposed to be cooler than the … Read More

L’Epicuriste

January 11, 2011 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

A smiling welcome, lots of space and fine food make L’Epicuriste worth the trip to off-the-beaten-track Paris. Photo: ParisUpdate.com Pros: Space, lovely staff, good take on bistro food Cons: Odd location (but decent Métro connection) Location is all, they say. … Read More

L’Ami Jean

With Friends like These...

December 12, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Pros: Excellent food Cons: Grossly overcrowded space, unpleasant staff, rushed service L’Ami Jean is one of those places that gets talked about a great deal, which is why I have held off going there. When yet another glowing review popped … Read More

Moustache

October 19, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

The food at Moustache offers a judicious fusing of East and West.   Pros: Good ingredients, original fusion of traditions, pleasant decor Cons: Not in my neighborhood, a bit pricey The second time I went to eat at Moustache, my … Read More

Une Poule sur un Mur

October 12, 2010 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

The gambas were served on a bed of fried risotto.   Pros: Smiling service, quality food, quiet ambiance Cons: Food a bit too spicy Playing the game of Chicken can be extremely dangerous, but there is little risk involved in … Read More

Saturne

September 28, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive, Restaurants

      THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW PERMANENTLY CLOSED Pros: Great food, nice space Cons: Noisy Saturne has been an instant hit. I overheard J.P. Gené, food writer for Le Monde, mention its opening on a Tuesday a couple of … Read More

Chez Georges

September 7, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

The generous eggs-mayo at Chez Georges came with a garnish of sliced tomatoes. On a steaming day back in July, I sank gratefully into my seat in the comfortably air-conditioned back room at Chez Georges, an old-style, seemingly eternal … … Read More