February 1, 2011 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Every dish at Le Dauphin is superbly executed and presented. Photo: ParisUpdate.com Pros: Great food, good wine list Cons: Noisy, cold interior, space at a premium I like marble. I do. A lot. It’s supposed to be cooler than the … Read More
January 11, 2011 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
A smiling welcome, lots of space and fine food make L’Epicuriste worth the trip to off-the-beaten-track Paris. Photo: ParisUpdate.com Pros: Space, lovely staff, good take on bistro food Cons: Odd location (but decent Métro connection) Location is all, they say. … Read More
December 12, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
Pros: Excellent food Cons: Grossly overcrowded space, unpleasant staff, rushed service L’Ami Jean is one of those places that gets talked about a great deal, which is why I have held off going there. When yet another glowing review popped … Read More
December 7, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
I have two typically French restaurants for you this week: a fine-dining restaurant that calls itself a brasserie and a couscous restaurant anointed Best in Paris by Le Figaro’s crack team of inspectors. The Brasserie du Louvre sits right on … Read More
November 16, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
One of the perks of being a reviewer is that I occasionally get invited to openings and, also occasionally, I am so charmed by the place and the people that I want to write about them despite … One of … Read More
November 7, 2010 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Pros: Wonderful food, service, location. Low noise levels. Big outdoor terrace. Cons: Can’t think of any I was disappointed by my first glance at the menu at the Mini Palais, whose “consulting chef” is Eric … Read More
October 19, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
The food at Moustache offers a judicious fusing of East and West. Pros: Good ingredients, original fusion of traditions, pleasant decor Cons: Not in my neighborhood, a bit pricey The second time I went to eat at Moustache, my … Read More
October 12, 2010 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive
The gambas were served on a bed of fried risotto. Pros: Smiling service, quality food, quiet ambiance Cons: Food a bit too spicy Playing the game of Chicken can be extremely dangerous, but there is little risk involved in … Read More
September 28, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive, Restaurants
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW PERMANENTLY CLOSED Pros: Great food, nice space Cons: Noisy Saturne has been an instant hit. I overheard J.P. Gené, food writer for Le Monde, mention its opening on a Tuesday a couple of … Read More
September 7, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive
The generous eggs-mayo at Chez Georges came with a garnish of sliced tomatoes. On a steaming day back in July, I sank gratefully into my seat in the comfortably air-conditioned back room at Chez Georges, an old-style, seemingly eternal … … Read More