Atelier Mala & Xi’an
Stay Off the Streets!
On the strong recommendation of a friend, I ate recently at the Sichuan “street food” restaurant Atelier Mala. I put “street food” in quotes because it seems to me that street food is food sold in the street, not in … Read More
La Petite Périgourdine Restaurant
Keeping It Classic
You may have noticed that we’ve been reviewing a number of traditional restaurants here lately (Au Moulin à Vent, À La Renaissance, etc.). That’s mostly a coincidence, but in fact these types of restaurants are currently à la mode, not … Read More
Les Marmottes Restaurant
Alpine Cheesefest
If you are longing for a few runs down the glistening slopes of the Alps, followed by a warming fondue, but are stuck in Paris, not to worry, you can at least have a good cheesy fondue or one of … Read More
Au Moulin à Vent Restaurant
A Living Relic
Au Moulin à Vent is a relic of the past, the kind of bistro adored by visitors and Parisians alike. Unlike À la Renaissance, another old-fashioned bistro recently reviewed here, the setting has not been refreshed but left in its … Read More
19 Saint Roch Restaurant
Waiting for the Magic
Expectations were high for our dinner at 19 Saint Roch. The restaurant had received great reviews, and the first few times I tried to reserve a table, it was all booked up. Its youthful (30-year-old) chef, Pierre Touitou, formerly of … Read More
À La Renaissance Restaurant
Back to the Future Bistro
The restaurant À La Renaissance has undergone a successful rebirth, from charmingly old-fashioned hundred-year-old neighborhood bistro to charmingly old-fashioned but spiffed-up, trendy café/bistro full of mostly young people enjoying simple, excellent dishes prepared by chef Min Wou Choi, formerly of … Read More
Candide/Osteria Paradiso Restaurant
A Cultivated Garden
UPDATE, September 5, 2025: Not long after we reviewed it, Candide changed its name to Osteria Paradiso and became a traditional Italian restaurant with the same team and same values – garden-fresh seasonal produce – that it had in its … Read More
Pétrelle Restaurant
Romantic Gourmet Hideaway
If you want to treat yourself or a friend to a special meal but can’t afford to drop €300 or more per person at a Michelin-starred restaurant, I have the perfect place for you: Pétrelle, a venerable restaurant in the … Read More
Namak Restaurant
Passion for Persian Cuisine
Just a few days after eating at the superb Middle Eastern restaurant Jolia, I found myself lunching with a friend at the Iranian restaurant Namak. While the food was similar to that of Jolia in some ways (rose petals, pomegranate … Read More
Onii-San Restaurant
Hot Stuff
Who doesn’t love candlelight in a restaurant? Normally I do, but not when it’s a hot evening in the middle of summer and the un-air-conditioned restaurant is small and cramped. The groups of candles were the first thing I noticed … Read More