Le Savarin Restaurant
Parisian in the Best Sense
Le Savarin is one of a small empire of excellent restaurants in Paris’s ninth arrondissement, collectively known as the La Pantruchoise (the others are La Pantruche, Caillebotte and Le Coucou). I was quite taken with Le Savarin when it was … Read More
Toy Restaurant
Shoyu, Shio or Miso?
Toy is nothing to play around with. It’s a new Japanese – or should I say japonisant (inspired by Japan) – ramen bar in Paris. The small, minimalist space with distressed concrete walls is set up like the real thing, … Read More
Mantra Restaurant
Meditate on This
A mantra is supposed to be kept secret, but Paris is home to one mantra whose existence should be broadcast far and wide. I’m referring to the new (five-month-old) restaurant Mantra in Paris’s 9th arrondissement. Mantra, with chef Manogeran Shasitaran … Read More
Monaco Restaurant
Café Life Renewed
I am here to testify that there is more to the gastronomic offerings of the 13th arrondissement than Asian restaurants of various stripes. One non-Asian gem is Monaco, once a venerable but declining café, now a spacious, light-filled café/restaurant with … Read More
Occasion Restaurant
A Special Occasion
You don’t need a special occasion to go to the new restaurant Occasion in the 10th arrondissement. And although the only dining option – a set menu with four courses for €49 (or, on Saturday evening, five courses for €59) … Read More
Les Arlots Restaurant
Still the Best Bistro
It’s been quite a long time since I first ate at Les Arlots and loved it. I have tried to go back there many times, but it was always booked up on the date I wanted. In the meantime, backed … Read More
Atelier Mala & Xi’an
Stay Off the Streets!
On the strong recommendation of a friend, I ate recently at the Sichuan “street food” restaurant Atelier Mala. I put “street food” in quotes because it seems to me that street food is food sold in the street, not in … Read More
La Petite Périgourdine Restaurant
Keeping It Classic
You may have noticed that we’ve been reviewing a number of traditional restaurants here lately (Au Moulin à Vent, À La Renaissance, etc.). That’s mostly a coincidence, but in fact these types of restaurants are currently à la mode, not … Read More
Les Marmottes Restaurant
Alpine Cheesefest
If you are longing for a few runs down the glistening slopes of the Alps, followed by a warming fondue, but are stuck in Paris, not to worry, you can at least have a good cheesy fondue or one of … Read More
Au Moulin à Vent Restaurant
A Living Relic
Au Moulin à Vent is a relic of the past, the kind of bistro adored by visitors and Parisians alike. Unlike À la Renaissance, another old-fashioned bistro recently reviewed here, the setting has not been refreshed but left in its … Read More