Pastore Restaurant
The Shepherd Knows the Way
When I heard that Lorenzo Sciabica, the chef at the new Italian restaurant Pastore (“shepherd” in Italian, located on Rue Bergère, “shepherd” French), in Paris’s ninth arrondissement, had formerly worked at Osteria Ferrara, owned by one of my favorite Italian … Read More
Sōma Restaurant
EZ Eating at an Izakaya
Japan is the flavor of the day in Paris, whether we’re talking about young Japanese chefs cooking French or Japanese food with flair or a hybrid of the two. The trendy, French-owned Sōma, which has just opened its second branch … Read More
Marso & Co Restaurant
Life Is (Good) Food
Much-lauded chef Tomy Gousset, owner of the Michelin-one-starred Tomy & Co (seventh arrondissement) and Hugo & Co (fifth), has just moved into new Left Bank territory – a corner of the 13th arrondissement not particularly known for its gourmet hotspots … Read More
Aux Crus de Bourgogne Restaurant
Flashback to Past Favorites
I have a long history with Aux Crus de Bourgogne, having won the heart of the waiter the first time I went there by helping him fold napkins at the end of the evening. That was many years ago, and … Read More
Mokko Restaurant
Scout's Honor: It's Good
I rely on a network of informants – friends, readers and colleagues – to help me decide which restaurants to test and review. One of the most reliable is a certain Jean-Michel, a man with high culinary standards and an … Read More
Le Récepteur
Summer Surprise
On a recent Sunday afternoon, I was planning to give an architectural tour in the 16th arrondissement and was looking for a good restaurant in the area that would be open on Sunday evening, a near-impossible task. My two first … Read More
La Bécane à Gaston Restaurant
Too Much Like Home
Another week, another slightly disappointing restaurant. This is getting tiresome. Once again, a friend and I had high hopes for a bistro, La Bécane à Gaston, based on word-of-mouth recommendations. Decor-wise, La Bécane resembles the restaurants I have reviewed in … Read More
Trois B
Juggling with Three Balls
I love meatballs. Who doesn’t? Well, vegetarians, I guess, but even they can eat at Trois B, a new restaurant in the 19th arrondissement specializing in “balls.” It is not the only one, however. The first one, reviewed here, had … Read More
Le Maquis
Taming the Maquis
Not much is happening gastronomically out near the northern edge of Paris, although there are some cool places like the eco-friendly café/restaurant the Recyclerie. Now, however, a modest little bistro with equally modest prices and above-average food has opened. It’s … Read More
Padam Padam
A Bit of This and a Bit of That
I had high hopes for the new Montmartre restaurant Padam Padam (presumably named after Édith Piaf’s famous song) after reading a highly complimentary review in a French magazine, Télérama, which noted that the cheffe, Marine Thomas, had previously worked with … Read More