Les Trois Bornés Restaurant
One-Track Mind
The French word “borné” means “narrow-minded” or “blinkered,” but let’s give it a kinder translation: “having a one-track mind,” in this case, focusing on good food. It doesn’t really matter, however, since this new restaurant’s name is just a jokey … Read More
Petit Boutary Restaurant
Offspring of Caviar House
Le Petit Boutary is the younger, more casual sibling of Boutary in Saint Germain-des-Prés, a restaurant opened in 2016 by the house of caviar Boutary, which was founded in 1888 but recently acquired by a new owner. The petit version … Read More
Oyster Club Restaurant
Ocean Current to Happiness
It’s a well-known fact (I think) that inhaling the salt air by the sea is not only good for you but also makes you feel great. And, as I discovered when I ate lunch at the Oyster Club the other … Read More
Fleur du Pavé Restaurant
(Mushy) Food for Thought
Chef Sylvain Sendra has traced quite an itinerary through Paris. He started out in a pocket-sized bistro, Le Temps au Temps, on the Rue Paul Bert in the 11th arrondissement. “Discovered” by Parisian foodies, it soon outgrew its small space, … Read More
Les Climats Restaurant
Yesterday's Canteen, Today's Luxury Restaurant
The next time someone asks me to recommend a restaurant for a special occasion, I will have one on the tip of my tongue: Les Climats. This beautiful space with a handsome Art Nouveau decor – complete with high arched … Read More
Les Grands Verres Restaurant
Dining in the Glass House
Everybody likes a museum café, but the name doesn’t really cover the super-sized Les Grands Verres at the Palais de Tokyo. With its cavernous space, it should be lovable, not just likable, and it is, far more so than its … Read More
Solstice Restaurant
Disproving the Adage "Those Who Can't, Teach"
Chef Éric Trochon is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France who has trained many a talented young chef as a teacher at the École Ferrandi and is also a partner in the excellent Left Bank restaurants Freddy’s and Semilla. Now he … Read More
Yaya Restaurant
Cliché-Free Greek Cuisine
Friends who have been to Greece (I haven’t yet, unfortunately) say that the food is simple, fresh and delicious, although others add that such dishes as moussaka and souvlaki can become rather monotonous. Not having much experience with Greek restaurants … Read More
Adar Restaurant
Rites of Passage
Ever since I tasted his hybrid French-Israeli cooking at the restaurant Fulgurances some three years ago, I’ve been waiting for the young chef Tamir Nahmias to set up on his own. Fait accompli, but his new place, Adar, in the … Read More
Georgia Restaurant
Georgia on My Mind
Last week, I sampled the cuisine of the state of Georgia in the Caucasus at Colchide, so it was only fitting that this week I should try the food of the American state of Georgia at a new restaurant named … Read More