Adar Restaurant
Rites of Passage
Ever since I tasted his hybrid French-Israeli cooking at the restaurant Fulgurances some three years ago, I’ve been waiting for the young chef Tamir Nahmias to set up on his own. Fait accompli, but his new place, Adar, in the … Read More
Georgia Restaurant
Georgia on My Mind
Last week, I sampled the cuisine of the state of Georgia in the Caucasus at Colchide, so it was only fitting that this week I should try the food of the American state of Georgia at a new restaurant named … Read More
Colchide Restaurant
Caucasian Comfort
When I heard that the food of Georgia (in the Caucasus, not the southern United States) was the latest national cuisine craze, I went looking for one in Paris. I found Colchide in the 18th arrondissement and dragged my friend Bill … Read More
Anona Restaurant
Good Conscience Dining
The restaurant Anona, in Paris’s 17th arrondissement, is named in honor of the custard apple (annone in French), a scaly fruit that is scary-looking on the outside but sweet, creamy and vitamin-packed inside. The analogy does not apply to the … Read More
Brasserie du Louvre-Bocuse
Where's the Bocuse Spirit and Oomph?
The Hôtel du Louvre recently reopened after a major renovation by Hyatt, but its brasserie looks exactly the same, with brass rails, booths with red banquettes and mirrored walls. The only apparent difference is that “Bocuse” has been tacked on … Read More
Pastore Restaurant
The Shepherd Knows the Way
When I heard that Lorenzo Sciabica, the chef at the new Italian restaurant Pastore (“shepherd” in Italian, located on Rue Bergère, “shepherd” French), in Paris’s ninth arrondissement, had formerly worked at Osteria Ferrara, owned by one of my favorite Italian … Read More
Sōma Restaurant
EZ Eating at an Izakaya
Japan is the flavor of the day in Paris, whether we’re talking about young Japanese chefs cooking French or Japanese food with flair or a hybrid of the two. The trendy, French-owned Sōma, which has just opened its second branch … Read More
Marso & Co Restaurant
Life Is (Good) Food
Much-lauded chef Tomy Gousset, owner of the Michelin-one-starred Tomy & Co (seventh arrondissement) and Hugo & Co (fifth), has just moved into new Left Bank territory – a corner of the 13th arrondissement not particularly known for its gourmet hotspots … Read More
Aux Crus de Bourgogne Restaurant
Flashback to Past Favorites
I have a long history with Aux Crus de Bourgogne, having won the heart of the waiter the first time I went there by helping him fold napkins at the end of the evening. That was many years ago, and … Read More
Mokko Restaurant
Scout's Honor: It's Good
I rely on a network of informants – friends, readers and colleagues – to help me decide which restaurants to test and review. One of the most reliable is a certain Jean-Michel, a man with high culinary standards and an … Read More