Les Climats Restaurant
Yesterday's Canteen, Today's Luxury Restaurant
The next time someone asks me to recommend a restaurant for a special occasion, I will have one on the tip of my tongue: Les Climats. This beautiful space with a handsome Art Nouveau decor – complete with high arched … Read More
Les Grands Verres Restaurant
Dining in the Glass House
Everybody likes a museum café, but the name doesn’t really cover the super-sized Les Grands Verres at the Palais de Tokyo. With its cavernous space, it should be lovable, not just likable, and it is, far more so than its … Read More
Solstice Restaurant
Disproving the Adage "Those Who Can't, Teach"
Chef Éric Trochon is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France who has trained many a talented young chef as a teacher at the École Ferrandi and is also a partner in the excellent Left Bank restaurants Freddy’s and Semilla. Now he … Read More
Yaya Restaurant
Cliché-Free Greek Cuisine
Friends who have been to Greece (I haven’t yet, unfortunately) say that the food is simple, fresh and delicious, although others add that such dishes as moussaka and souvlaki can become rather monotonous. Not having much experience with Greek restaurants … Read More
Adar Restaurant
Rites of Passage
Ever since I tasted his hybrid French-Israeli cooking at the restaurant Fulgurances some three years ago, I’ve been waiting for the young chef Tamir Nahmias to set up on his own. Fait accompli, but his new place, Adar, in the … Read More
Georgia Restaurant
Georgia on My Mind
Last week, I sampled the cuisine of the state of Georgia in the Caucasus at Colchide, so it was only fitting that this week I should try the food of the American state of Georgia at a new restaurant named … Read More
Colchide Restaurant
Caucasian Comfort
When I heard that the food of Georgia (in the Caucasus, not the southern United States) was the latest national cuisine craze, I went looking for one in Paris. I found Colchide in the 18th arrondissement and dragged my friend Bill … Read More
Anona Restaurant
Good Conscience Dining
The restaurant Anona, in Paris’s 17th arrondissement, is named in honor of the custard apple (annone in French), a scaly fruit that is scary-looking on the outside but sweet, creamy and vitamin-packed inside. The analogy does not apply to the … Read More
Brasserie du Louvre-Bocuse
Where's the Bocuse Spirit and Oomph?
The Hôtel du Louvre recently reopened after a major renovation by Hyatt, but its brasserie looks exactly the same, with brass rails, booths with red banquettes and mirrored walls. The only apparent difference is that “Bocuse” has been tacked on … Read More
Pastore Restaurant
The Shepherd Knows the Way
When I heard that Lorenzo Sciabica, the chef at the new Italian restaurant Pastore (“shepherd” in Italian, located on Rue Bergère, “shepherd” French), in Paris’s ninth arrondissement, had formerly worked at Osteria Ferrara, owned by one of my favorite Italian … Read More