Toy Restaurant
Shoyu, Shio or Miso?
Toy is nothing to play around with. It’s a new Japanese – or should I say japonisant (inspired by Japan) – ramen bar in Paris. The small, minimalist space with distressed concrete walls is set up like the real thing, … Read More
Mantra Restaurant
Meditate on This
A mantra is supposed to be kept secret, but Paris is home to one mantra whose existence should be broadcast far and wide. I’m referring to the new (five-month-old) restaurant Mantra in Paris’s 9th arrondissement. Mantra, with chef Manogeran Shasitaran … Read More
Monaco Restaurant
Café Life Renewed
I am here to testify that there is more to the gastronomic offerings of the 13th arrondissement than Asian restaurants of various stripes. One non-Asian gem is Monaco, once a venerable but declining café, now a spacious, light-filled café/restaurant with … Read More
Occasion Restaurant
A Special Occasion
You don’t need a special occasion to go to the new restaurant Occasion in the 10th arrondissement. And although the only dining option – a set menu with four courses for €49 (or, on Saturday evening, five courses for €59) … Read More
Les Arlots Restaurant
Still the Best Bistro
It’s been quite a long time since I first ate at Les Arlots and loved it. I have tried to go back there many times, but it was always booked up on the date I wanted. In the meantime, backed … Read More
Atelier Mala & Xi’an
Stay Off the Streets!
On the strong recommendation of a friend, I ate recently at the Sichuan “street food” restaurant Atelier Mala. I put “street food” in quotes because it seems to me that street food is food sold in the street, not in … Read More
La Petite Périgourdine Restaurant
Keeping It Classic
You may have noticed that we’ve been reviewing a number of traditional restaurants here lately (Au Moulin à Vent, À La Renaissance, etc.). That’s mostly a coincidence, but in fact these types of restaurants are currently à la mode, not … Read More
Les Marmottes Restaurant
Alpine Cheesefest
If you are longing for a few runs down the glistening slopes of the Alps, followed by a warming fondue, but are stuck in Paris, not to worry, you can at least have a good cheesy fondue or one of … Read More
Au Moulin à Vent Restaurant
A Living Relic
Au Moulin à Vent is a relic of the past, the kind of bistro adored by visitors and Parisians alike. Unlike À la Renaissance, another old-fashioned bistro recently reviewed here, the setting has not been refreshed but left in its … Read More
19 Saint Roch Restaurant
Waiting for the Magic
Expectations were high for our dinner at 19 Saint Roch. The restaurant had received great reviews, and the first few times I tried to reserve a table, it was all booked up. Its youthful (30-year-old) chef, Pierre Touitou, formerly of … Read More