At last, a meal I could really get my teeth into and enjoy down to the last bite. Where? Louis, the new restaurant of Stéphane Pitré in the ninth arrondissement. The tiny place (seats 24) has been charmingly done up in white and shades of blue. The chef, who personally delivered each dish and explained its ingredients to us, was equally charming.
My hopes for Amarante were high. I remembered enjoying a wonderful meal at Christophe, the previous restaurant of Amarante’s chef-owner Christophe Philippe, although both Richard Hesse (Paris Update’s former restaurant critic) and I had found the decor depressing.