Le Concert de Cuisine

February 2, 2010 | By Paris Update | Archive

Foie gras terrine and eel teriyaki with sansho spices, done up to look like an exquisite cake. Photo © Darren Palmer When you enter this small restaurant, the first indication that it’s Japanese comes from the unmistakable accent of the … Read More

Benoît, Rech, Aux Lyonnais

January 26, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Aux Lyonnais has a traditional bistro ambiance. The big news on the food front today (there are more important things happening in the world) is that El Bulli, five times rated the world’s best restaurant, will be closed in 2012 … Read More

L’Ecailler du Bistrot

January 19, 2010 | By Paris Update | Archive

Everything on the heaping seafood platter is fresh from the brine. If you have a craving for fresh seafood, L’Ecailler du Bistrot is a sure bet. Everything they serve comes straight from the French coast. Gwenaelle Cadoret, who runs the … Read More

Prunier

January 12, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Prunier’s Art Deco dining room with black marble walls was designed by architect Louis Hippolyte Boileau and artist Léon Carrière. Casting around for words to describe the Prunier experience, I came up with “regal,” aristocratic” and “breeding,” in that order. … Read More

Le Petit Curieux

January 5, 2010 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Le Petit Curieux is a neighborhood restaurant with good products to eat in or take out. A curious thing has happened each of the three times I have eaten at the restaurant Le Petit Curieux: one dish is so delightful … Read More

Le 122

December 8, 2009 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

The food at 122 is impeccably prepared. Above: snails in “angel hair” batter. Pros: Great food, well-chosen wines; pleasant, attentive service Cons: Decor a bit Spartan for my taste. Walking into 122, a memory resurfaced of a journalist’s comment about … Read More

Au Petit Riche

December 1, 2009 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Au Petit Riche has been around since 1854. Pros: Fabulous list of Loire wines; quirky layout; pleasant atmosphere Cons: Cooking seems stuck in a rut The last time I set foot in the Petit Riche was about two decades ago, … Read More

Mélac

November 10, 2009 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Mélac is all about serious food and wine with no frills.   Pros: Good food; inexpensive, well-chosen wines   Cons: Slightly batty service   In one of those eerie strokes of synchronicity, my date had told me, when I suggested … Read More

Bernard du 15

November 3, 2009 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

  Soft-boiled eggs contained bits of salmon and mushroom and were topped with egg-white froth.   Pros: Quiet, plenty of space, easygoing service (could also be a con if you’re in a hurry) Cons: Slightly uneven food quality Funny, the … Read More

Les Grandes Bouches

October 27, 2009 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

The menu and decor are on the quirky side at this young-mom-and-pop bistro. Pros: Friendly service, friendly wine list, pleasant surroundings Cons: Rather noisy A mom-and-pop restaurant these days is likely to be run by a couple in their late … Read More