Benoit

June 26, 2007 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

French Lessons Alain Ducasse may have a few things to teach his fellow Frenchmen about running restaurants. At the root of the word “benoît” is the Latin “benedictus,” which means “blessed” or even “happy.” This is an appropriate name for … Read More

Maison du Jardin

June 19, 2007 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Hot and Cold Reception, Pleasure on the Plate The Maison du Jardin doesn’t have its own garden, but it is located near one of Paris’s most beautiful, the Luxembourg Garden. If you are welcomed to La Maison du Jardin by … Read More

Pramil

June 10, 2007 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

A Winner, Front and Back May 9, 2007 Gordon Ramsay, known for his 15 restaurants and very bad language, has an occasional TV series called “Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares,” in which the ubiquitous überchef is invited into a failing restaurant to … Read More

Centre Pompidou: Contemporary Collection

April 24, 2007 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Contemporary Correspondences Photo: Georges Meguerditchian Following the successful rehang of its modern art collection (1906-60), the Centre Pompidou has scored another hit with the new presentation of its contemporary collection (1960-present), showing individual pieces chronologically in loose groupings that bring … Read More

Centre Pompidou

February 20, 2007 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Condensed History of Modern Art Giorgio De Chirico’s “Portrait Prémonitoire de Guillaume Apollinaire” (1914). Photo © Centre Pompidou, ADAGP, Paris, 2007 The Centre Pompidou’s just-opened chronological rehang of its permanent collection of modern art (1906-60) offers a certain vision of … Read More

Culture Wars

January 9, 2007 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Artistic Soul for Sale? Some critics of the French government accuse it of wanting to sell off the country’s artistic heritage, even the “Mona Lisa,” shown here being put into place in the Salle de la Joconde in 2005. Photo: … Read More

A Casaluna

April 25, 2006 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Corsican Exports Napoleon would probably have felt at home here. Two of Corsica’s most noted exports are Napoleon and food, and both serendipitously came together on a recent dinner date, when I combined a visit to the stupendously bad exhibition … Read More

Les Fernandises

April 11, 2006 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Heading South A neighorhood bistro serving southwestern dishes with a strong Spanish influence. Everything’s been turned upside-down in this neighborhood bistro, which used to serve excellent specialties from Normandy in a gloomy ambiance that made you wish antidepressants were served … Read More

Aux Crus de Bourgogne

March 21, 2006 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

Resisting Time The restaurant hasn’t changed much since 1932. Lovers of Paris don’t like the city to change, and while that may be a retrograde attitude, it is still extremely comforting to return many years later to a restaurant you … Read More