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Archive

Clandestino

What’s the Secret? Creative Food, Cozy Setting

February 25, 2014 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants

THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Last week, a British friend who lives in Paris e-mailed me from New York City with an urgent message: I must eat at Clandestino. Ever obedient, I reserved a table for the following evening. In … Read More

Good Food to Go, Part Two: Grillé, Jules et Shim, Holybelly

Eating Well On the Go

February 19, 2014 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants

GRILLÉ AND JULES ET SHIM ARE NOW CLOSED, BUT HOLYBELLY IS STILL OPEN Three-martini lunches were never a thing in Paris, but long, wine-soaked ones were. While lots of Parisian office workers still have a hot midday meal in a … Read More

Good Food to Go, Part One: Frenchie to Go, Freddie’s Deli, Caluc, Bulma

Fast Slow Food, Good to Go

February 8, 2014 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants

ALL FOUR OF THESE RESTAURANT ARE NOW CLOSED Can a foodie have a quick lunch in Paris without compromising his or her culinary standards by going to a fast food restaurant? Absolutely. And it is getting easier and easier as … Read More

Clamato

Next Door to Septime: A Fine Kettle of Fish

January 22, 2014 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants

Naming a Paris restaurant after an American juice product, Clamato (a mixture of clam and tomato juices, as the name suggests), may seem a bit odd, but there you have it. And when you know that this is the fish … Read More

Culture Sector’s Contribution to the French Economy

VIVE L’EXCEPTION FRANCAISE!

January 22, 2014 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

The culture budget is always one of the first to be cut in troubled economic times. To demonstrate the error of this way of thinking, French Culture Minister Aurélie Filippetti, who gave her annual New Year’s address to the press … Read More

BAT

Batting 1000 on the Grands Boulevards

January 13, 2014 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants

THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED An oasis for lovers of good food has sprung up in the culinary desert that is Paris’s “grands boulevards.” Sandwiched in between the Hard Rock Café and the Musée Grévin wax museum, BAT (for “Bar … Read More

The Fish Club

Something Fishy Going On

January 7, 2014 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants

THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED When we arrived there the other evening, the Fish Club felt more like a nightclub, with its low lighting, low tables and not-so-low sound levels being produced by trendy-looking groups of people. We had arrived … Read More

Beaucoup

Lots of ‘Like,’ but Not Enough Love

December 18, 2013 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants

THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED We liked Glou and we loved Jaja, so we fully expected to adore Beaucoup, the new restaurant opened by the same trendy team. Beaucoup turned out to be something rather different, however, from its small, … Read More

Ito

Japanese-Filipino Fusion Works Its Charm

December 1, 2013 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants

Don’t go to Ito if you are looking for a quiet meal. Do go with friends who like to have a good time and eat well. You will be packed in with other diners into this small place with minimal … Read More

Cuistance

Truffles on Cheese, Pasta and Meat, and Truffles for Dessert

November 18, 2013 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive, Restaurants

THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Cuistance was on a truffle binge when I dined there the other night with Paris Update’s former restaurant reviewer Richard Hesse. We were celebrating his birthday, so it seemed appropriate that there was something special … Read More

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