In Good Taste A plain backdrop for a fine meal. Unpretentious, friendly and inexpensive, with excellent food – what more could you ask for in a restaurant? Some would say an attractive decor, but we all have different priorities. Marsangy … Read More
For the Love of Tradition Chef Alain Brigant named his restaurant after his great-grandfather. Note (Dec. 31, 2007): Velly has changed owners and is now called Villa Victoria, but apparently has the same chef. Watch this space for an updated … Read More
Transplanted Rose Blooms in Paris Daniel Rose at work in his shoebox restaurant. “Have you heard about this place? It’s the latest buzz, everyone’s talking about it!” was my introduction to Spring a few weeks back from a friend … Read More
Reflections on Rip-offs Lotte with a spicy pear chutney. I have just been exercised by a grimly entertaining piece in the London Daily Telegraph about the food at Disneyland Resort Paris. The writer had no high expectations of the food … Read More
A lobster dish at L’Ardoise Gourmande. Spring is specializing in lobster rolls for the summer. This past week I have been back to a couple of places whose praises I’ve sung in the past: Spring and L’Ardoise Gourmande. It’s a … Read More
Even the Iberian Bellota pork sprouted a flower at Villa Victoria. Photo © ParisUpdate.com Villa Victoria (formerly Velly), located near the Eglise Notre Dame de Lorette, has long been a favorite of residents of the ninth arrondissement. After a change … Read More
Too Much of A Good Thing? Have you seen this Paris bistro before? When I walked into L’Office the other evening, I had the impression that I had been there before. I hadn’t, but the new wave of “neo-bistros” in … Read More
The Hairdresser and the Absentee Owners A gramophone provides one large piece of the decor at Le Déci. You have to be careful with restaurants in Paris: they sometimes change owners without changing their names. Twice I have gone to … Read More
Stealth Dining The best way to clear up the mystery of the Clos du Vert Bois is to patronize it. What makes a restaurant click? Why do some take off instantly and others bomb for no apparent reason? Five years … Read More
More Light, Less Noise! The isolated tables in the back room are the best bet. Goethe’s last words were reportedly “Mehr licht” (“more light”), pretty much my first thoughts as I was seated by the friendly maître d’ in La … Read More
