The long taco wait is over. Sometime last summer, I read that Beatriz Gonzalez, the ebullient chef/owner of two wonderful Paris restaurants, Coretta and Neva Cuisine, was planning to open a taco bar in September. When a website appeared, I checked … Read More
Jamat is a cozy mini-restaurant in the ninth arrondissement, so small that the chef, Matthieu Sales (who used to work in the fabulous bistro Les Arlots), needs no assistants in the tiny kitchen, in which he can reach everything with … Read More
I was dismayed to hear recently that the outstanding Kitchen Galerie Bis (a.k.a. KGB, the younger sibling of the Michelin-starred Ze Kitchen Galerie) had gone out of business, but my mood brightened when I heard that its former co-chef, Martin … Read More
Montmartre has many, many restaurants, but few that deserve special mention. That has now changed with the opening of Le Matré, a little gem hidden on a side street off the beaten tourist track. Despite a mixup over our reservation, … Read More
Multi-starred French chef Thierry Marx is an unusual specimen of the genre. Cheerful, easygoing and likable, he is not only an aficionado of judo and Zen meditation but also puts his values into action by using his celebrity and influence … Read More
The restaurant Soces managed to fly under my radar until recently, and that’s a shame. This is a place I definitely want to go back to often. The word “soces” is slang for “pals,” and, judging by the joyous uproar … Read More
Our meal at Nessia started off well. We arrived unfashionably early and had the rather dark but stylishly decorated restaurant (black marble tables, designer chairs and sconces, open kitchen in the back) to ourselves. We also had the full attention … Read More
Throughout our meal at Godaille, my friend Jean-Michel, a French linguist, puzzled over the choice of the restaurant’s name, a word that means “crease” (in clothing or fabric). We finally got a chance to ask our server, who explained that … Read More
Call me a snob, but I tremble every time The New York Times publishes an article recommending Paris restaurants; it’s a surefire guarantee that they will be packed to the rafters with tourists from then on. Getting a reservation will … Read More
Long gone are the days when Asian food in Paris was nearly always standardized and dumbed down. In the last couple of years, the number of creative, high-quality Asian places has grown at a dazzling pace, whether they be Chinese, … Read More
