Lessons from Across the Channel The meltingly tender pork. The Seven Stars pub in London’s Bloomsbury, just off Lincoln’s Inn Fields and facing the forbidding rear of the Central Law Courts, was founded when the first Queen Elizabeth was still … Read More
Eating Down Below Al least the basement is brightened with colorful murals. The French trade newspaper L’Hôtellerie Restauration, which advertises such well-known and admired produits du terroir as vacuum-cooked, ready-to-serve poached eggs, ready-made steak tartare preparation, and deep-frozen tutti quanti, … Read More
Gluttony Rewarded Inventive dishes and top-quality ingredients in an enoteca decor. Finding the kind of Italian food in Paris that home-grown Italians would be proud of is no easy task. And I was especially eager to find some after a … Read More
Hot and Cold Reception, Pleasure on the Plate The Maison du Jardin doesn’t have its own garden, but it is located near one of Paris’s most beautiful, the Luxembourg Garden. If you are welcomed to La Maison du Jardin by … Read More
A Winner, Front and Back May 9, 2007 Gordon Ramsay, known for his 15 restaurants and very bad language, has an occasional TV series called “Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares,” in which the ubiquitous überchef is invited into a failing restaurant to … Read More
Coolness Credentials High, Prices Low The room decorated by the artist André in the Hotel Amour. It is not true, as the French press has reported, that the new Hôtel Amour is the Parisian version of Japanese Love Hotels, where … Read More
Dear readers, before we proceed to further our acquaintance, I feel the time has come for me to own up to a nerdy addiction to cookery books: I am one of those people (you can add the “sad” yourself, if … Read More
Solid Comfort This restaurant is permanently closed. A place for a cozy, quiet meal of reliable quality. When you’re in the mood for a calm dinner in a warm, cozy, old-fashioned setting with no DJ playing loud music or trendy … Read More
