Throughout our meal at Godaille, my friend Jean-Michel, a French linguist, puzzled over the choice of the restaurant’s name, a word that means “crease” (in clothing or fabric). We finally got a chance to ask our server, who explained that … Read More
Call me a snob, but I tremble every time The New York Times publishes an article recommending Paris restaurants; it’s a surefire guarantee that they will be packed to the rafters with tourists from then on. Getting a reservation will … Read More
Long gone are the days when Asian food in Paris was nearly always standardized and dumbed down. In the last couple of years, the number of creative, high-quality Asian places has grown at a dazzling pace, whether they be Chinese, … Read More
Even though I live not far away and have heard my friends singing its praises for many years, I had never been to Chez Casimir, located near the Gare du Nord, until recently. Its former owner, chef Thierry Breton, who … Read More
Chef Christian Constant’s Café Constant (now Café Lignac) was just that: a constant pleasure. Two of its former stalwarts – Wolfang Staudinger and chef Étienne Hervé – have now founded their own restaurant, honoring their former place of employment by … Read More
Brasseries used to be the reliable mainstay of Paris’s restaurant world, open seven days a week and serving seafood platters and familiar dishes, usually of good quality. Nowadays, however, there are fewer of them, and the quality of many has … Read More
HuThoPi, a newish restaurant in the 12th arrondissement, has one of those corny names made up of the first letters of the owners’ names – childhood friends Hugo Lafont, Thomas Cuny and Pierre Le Lard – but it has the … Read More
You won’t see any surfers on Paris’s Canal Saint Martin but you can still get a little taste of Biarritz by the canal at a new restaurant called Maria Belza in honor of two famous seaside sites in Biarritz: the … Read More
When the friend who had accompanied me on my recent return trip to Jong-no Samgyetang told me that she had discovered another Korean restaurant that was a strong rival, I had to try it right away. After all, in my … Read More
Many, many years ago, I read in a French guidebook to Paris that there was a Galician restaurant on the Boulevard Richard Lenoir near where I lived in the 11th arrondissement. My roommate and I had our doubts, having never … Read More
