Coping in a Crisis The restaurant’s modern decor has a touch of whimsy. Paris has acquired a reputation for surly waiters, and this may well be the case in some of the more traditional establishments. But Fontaine Fiacre, a two-year-old … Read More
Playtime offers a refined version of 1950-60s design. Pros: Everything just right Cons: Everything just right The name of the restaurant Playtime is a reference to the 1967 film of the same name (spelled Play Time) by French director Jacques … Read More
Yes to Oyster Soup,No to Foie Gras and Eggs A la Marguerite is comfortable, attractive and centrally located. Why this restaurant is called A la Marguerite (daisy) is a mystery. There is nothing flowery about it. It has a clean, … Read More
No Gluten, Just Glee for Gluttons The sushi-style bar in Noglu’s downstairs dining room. I have been wanting – with some apprehension – to try Noglu, Paris’s new gluten-free restaurant, ever since it opened. The perfect opportunity presented itself last … Read More
Dining Well for a Good Cause Manger’s talented pastry chef works in a glass cage. In his book Au Revoir to All That, wine and food writer Michael Steinberger observed that instead of constantly complaining about the difficulty of getting … Read More
Inspired Kitchen, Wonky Service Inventive chef Gilles Choukroun gets the food right. Dining with a friend the other evening at Louis Vins, I was forcibly reminded how hit-and-miss table service can be. The otherwise delightful young lady serving us managed … Read More
Moonstruck Dining The rooftop terrace overlooking the Bassin de la Villette and the Ledoux building. It wasn’t about the food, which was fine. The magical evening my companion and I spent at 25° Est (25 Degrees East) had (apart from … Read More
Great value for money at 10 euros less. Pros: Good-quality, well-cooked food; pleasant, quiet atmosphere; no space problems. Cons: Prices a bit high. Chez Catherine has taken a bit of stick from the reviewers in recent weeks, and in a … Read More
Succulent monkfish in a herring emulsion, served with Jerusalem artichokes. Pros: Creative food, caring service Cons: Can be noisy The culinary opportunities in the 11th arrondissement around the Rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine have been improving of late. The … Read More
Café Artcurial’s new decor is by Gilles et Boissier. When I emerged from the Franklin D. Roosevelt Métro station, the first thing I saw in front of me was a Mirage jet fighter being installed in the forecourt of the … Read More
