Gaspard de la Nuit

September 27, 2005By Heidi EllisonArchive

Solid Comfort

A place for a cozy, quiet meal of reliable quality.

When you’re in the mood for a calm dinner in a warm, cozy, old-fashioned setting with no DJ playing loud music or trendy French youth puffing away on Marlboros, Gaspard de la Nuit is the place to go.

The specialty here is classic, flavorful French food made with high-quality ingredients that are cooked just right, without any silly frills or decorations added to your plate (one restaurant we know has a bad habit of putting sprigs of fennel and lavender on every dish).

Stick to the staples here, such as the kidneys (rognons) or a veal chop with wild mushrooms. Even though it’s a bit pricey – 11 euros for a simple green bean salad, for example – the green beans are perfectly cooked and dressed and spiced up with a few red peppercorns, and it’s worth feeling well cared-for and well-fed when you leave. The wine list offers an interesting selection, with an emphasis on the classics, Bordeaux and Burgundy.

There aren’t many solid, no-nonsense restaurants like this left in Paris, especially in this area between the Marais and the Bastille.

Take advantage of it, especially during the cold weather.

Gaspard de la Nuit: 6 rue des Tournelles, 75004 Paris. Tel.: 01 42 77 90 53. Open daily for dinner only.

Heidi Ellison

© 2005 Paris Update

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