Pastore Restaurant

The Shepherd Knows the Way

September 10, 2019By Heidi EllisonRestaurants
Pastore, a new Italian restaurant in Paris’s ninth arrondissement.
Pastore, a new Italian restaurant in Paris’s ninth arrondissement.

When I heard that Lorenzo Sciabica, the chef at the new Italian restaurant Pastore (“shepherd” in Italian, located on Rue Bergère, “shepherd” French), in Paris’s ninth arrondissement, had formerly worked at Osteria Ferrara, owned by one of my favorite Italian chefs, Alberto Ferrara, I hastened to book a table there.

It felt like a good decision as soon as we walked in and saw the clean, stripped-down decor, with marble tabletops set with real napkins and knife rests (classy touches often absent in reasonably priced Paris restaurants), with a few splashes of color in the Tuscan-ocher designer chairs and yellow-painted posts.

Focaccia with sun-dried tomatoes.
Focaccia with sun-dried tomatoes.

The wisdom of the choice was further confirmed by two wonderful starters chosen from the short menu, served after an amuse-bouche of tasty focaccia with fantastic olive oil.

Ricotta balls with red-pepper sauce.
Ricotta balls with red-pepper sauce.

The deep-fried ricotta balls were light as a feather (unlike their more commonly seen cousin, mozzarella fritta), without the slightest trace of grease. They were paired with a luscious red-pepper sauce.

Fig salad.
Fig salad.

The fig salad came with tiny, flavorful yellow datterino tomatoes, which seemed to melt in the mouth. Also thrown into this delicious mix were an excellent feta cheese, toasted hazelnuts and mustard greens.

Spaghetone with langoustine.
Spaghetone with langoustine.

The main courses were just as well thought out and prepared. The spaghetone (fat spaghetti) with langoustine and friggitelli (sweet Italian chili peppers) was wonderfully rich and briny, with a generous helping of langoustine. 

Rabbit-stuffed ravioli.
Rabbit-stuffed ravioli.

The homemade rabbit-stuffed ravioli with potato cream, olives, capers and tomatoes was pleasingly gamey. 

Pollack with green beans, scallions and zucchini flowers.
Pollack with green beans, scallions and zucchini flowers.

The only non-pasta main course we ordered was lieu jaune (pollack) with perfect green beans and stuffed zucchini flowers, another total success. 

Walnut semifreddo with figs and caramelized apples.
Walnut semifreddo with figs and caramelized apples.

The shared dessert, a walnut semifreddo with figs, caramelized apples and caramelized walnuts, was another stunner. 

Ferrara’s emphasis on beautifully prepared, top-quality seasonal ingredients is obviously the rule at Pastore as well. Go, and let the friendly staff shepherd you through a great meal.  

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