One of the most interesting bits of Paris is the stretch of Rue de Belleville between the Pyrenées and Jourdain Métro stations, which was my stamping ground for a while. It’s young and has a vibe and plenty of good food shops. The only thing missing was a deli selling the kind of good things no one else carries, like sardines from a small family firm in Brittany or outstanding hand-crafted chocolate from the house of Bonnat, with its deliciously retro packaging (Bonnat is very picky about who sells its stuff, making it hard to find). All that has now changed with the opening of L’Epicerie du 4 (4 rue de la Villette, 75019 Paris). Hats off to the enterprising épicière, who will be happy to have your custom (although I must confess that I work alongside her jovial, food-loving husband).
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