The restaurant Anona, in Paris’s 17th arrondissement, is named in honor of the custard apple (annone in French), a scaly fruit that is scary-looking on the outside but sweet, creamy and vitamin-packed inside. The analogy does not apply to the … Read More
The Hôtel du Louvre recently reopened after a major renovation by Hyatt, but its brasserie looks exactly the same, with brass rails, booths with red banquettes and mirrored walls. The only apparent difference is that “Bocuse” has been tacked on … Read More
When I heard that Lorenzo Sciabica, the chef at the new Italian restaurant Pastore (“shepherd” in Italian, located on Rue Bergère, “shepherd” French), in Paris’s ninth arrondissement, had formerly worked at Osteria Ferrara, owned by one of my favorite Italian … Read More
Japan is the flavor of the day in Paris, whether we’re talking about young Japanese chefs cooking French or Japanese food with flair or a hybrid of the two. The trendy, French-owned Sōma, which has just opened its second branch … Read More
Much-lauded chef Tomy Gousset, owner of the Michelin-one-starred Tomy & Co (seventh arrondissement) and Hugo & Co (fifth), has just moved into new Left Bank territory – a corner of the 13th arrondissement not particularly known for its gourmet hotspots … Read More
I have a long history with Aux Crus de Bourgogne, having won the heart of the waiter the first time I went there by helping him fold napkins at the end of the evening. That was many years ago, and … Read More
I rely on a network of informants – friends, readers and colleagues – to help me decide which restaurants to test and review. One of the most reliable is a certain Jean-Michel, a man with high culinary standards and an … Read More
On a recent Sunday afternoon, I was planning to give an architectural tour in the 16th arrondissement and was looking for a good restaurant in the area that would be open on Sunday evening, a near-impossible task. My two first … Read More
Another week, another slightly disappointing restaurant. This is getting tiresome. Once again, a friend and I had high hopes for a bistro, La Bécane à Gaston, based on word-of-mouth recommendations. Decor-wise, La Bécane resembles the restaurants I have reviewed in … Read More
I love meatballs. Who doesn’t? Well, vegetarians, I guess, but even they can eat at Trois B, a new restaurant in the 19th arrondissement specializing in “balls.” It is not the only one, however. The first one, reviewed here, had … Read More
