Habile Restaurant

Designer Dining

June 16, 2021By Heidi EllisonRestaurants
The restaurant and clothing store Habile in the 10th arrondissement.
The restaurant and clothing store Habile in the 10th arrondissement.

I’m on a roll! After discovering the restaurant L’Oyat last week during a walk down Rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, I have found another brand-new spot, Habile, not far away, on Rue Château d’Eau. This time I was attracted by the cheerful, colorful interior, with banquettes in shades of pink, bright-yellow chairs, blond wood tables and parquet, and metal spiral staircase.

The stylish kitchen.
The stylish kitchen.

When I went back for dinner, I noticed that this attention to design detail extends to the kitchen, with its cleverly arranged red, blue and white tiles on the wall and curved stainless-steel work table with four wooden stools arranged around it, presumably extra dining space. My friend and I also admired the pretty ceramic dishes in pastel colors.

A compliment for anyone who looks in the restroom mirror.
A compliment for anyone who looks in the restroom mirror.

Even the restroom is furnished with designer accouterments, right down to the soap dispenser, and exhibits the same joyous sense of humor: when you look at your reflection in the mirror, you are labeled a “sexy mother fucker” by the neon sign above it.

Why the focus on design? Because Habile started out as a workwear-inspired clothing brand, designed by Camille Andrieux. Originally sold only online, it is also now available in the space at the top of the spiral staircase. Since Éric Fontanini, her partner in life and work, happens to be a chef (formerly of the Restaurant du Palais Royal), they decided to join their specialties in one boutique, where wine and a small selection of fine groceries are also sold. It opened just a week ago.

The same aesthetic applies to both the clothing line and the food: simple, attractive products carefully made with high-quality materials.

On the night we ate there, the sparse menu offered two starters (one vegetarian, one meaty), three main courses (one veggie, one fishy, one meaty) and two desserts:

Fresh mango with citrusy hummus and whole chickpeas, coriander and peanuts (nice touch): refreshing and tasty.
Fresh mango with citrusy hummus and whole chickpeas, coriander and peanuts (nice touch): refreshing and tasty.
Fresh peas with dried ham, lettuce and parsley: a deconstructed salad with good rather disparate ingredients. Could have benefited from something that would pull it all together.
Fresh peas with dried ham, lettuce and parsley: a deconstructed salad with good but rather disparate ingredients – could have benefited from something that would pull it all together.
Veal tenderloin with confit shallots and carrot purée: simple, good meat and and purée with extra-carroty flavor.
Veal tenderloin with confit shallots and carrot purée: simple, with good meat and extra-carroty flavor in the purée.
Sea bass with mushroom risotto: altogether lovely. The flavorful risotto still had some bite to it, not always the case in restaurants.
Sea bass with mushroom risotto: altogether lovely. The flavorful risotto still had some bite to it, not always the case in restaurant risottos.
Rice pudding with strawberry sauce: I would have liked it to be richer and creamier, but my rice-pudding-loving friend sai it grew on her.
Rice pudding with strawberry sauce: I would have liked it to be richer and creamier, but my rice-pudding-loving friend said it grew on her.
Brownie with caramel sauce: for an American, this seemed like gilding the lily: the brownie was heated and drowned in the sauce. Still, it was delicious.
Brownie with caramel sauce: for an American, this seemed like gilding the lily: the brownie was heated and drowned in the sauce. Still, it was delicious.

Everyone at the restaurant was extremely agreeable and friendly. Though there is no terrace, the whole front of the restaurant was open, making it nice and airy on a summery evening

Great decor and atmosphere, good food and reasonable prices: the whole package.

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