Located near the no-man’s-land created by the train tracks running out of the Gare Saint Lazare, Neva Cuisine is something of an anomaly in the neighborhood. With its elegantly simple modern furnishings, high ceilings and 19th-century-style glass-ball chandeliers, it looks … Read More
If there were any doubt about Paris Update’s former restaurant reviewer Richard Hesse’s ability to sniff out a good restaurant, it can now be put to rest. On a visit to Paris recently from his new home across the Channel, … Read More
The restaurant Abri, whose name means “shelter,” literally provided refuge from the rain on a recent October evening, although I almost walked by its unassuming, brightly lit glass façade — from the street it looks more like a takeaway sandwich … Read More
Vilia takes liberties with the Italian classics, to great effect. Those who love classic home-style Italian dishes will adore the authentic, flavorful cooking at Procopio Angelo, reviewed here a couple of weeks ago, but those looking for more creative interpretations … Read More
The new restaurant recently opened on the Rue Oberkampf in Paris’s 11th arrondissement by Pierre-Sang Boyer, a 2011 “Top Chef” contestant, had garnered some good reviews, and I was looking forward to trying it out. Our meal there on a … Read More
When I heard that the hole-in-the-wall restaurant Procopio Angelo, which served up some of the best and most authentic Italian food in Paris, had closed, I was desolate. I would never again taste chef Angelo′s creamy burrata smothered with San … Read More
I have a sad tale to tell today. Last night I went to a restaurant called Coude à Coude near the Forum des Halles. The first time I went there a couple of years ago, our table was the only … Read More
Sometimes you’re just not in the mood for a long, drawn-out sit-down meal in a restaurant. One of my favorite places to eat in Paris is L’Avant Comptoir, the tiny sliver of an annex to star chef Yves Camdeborde’s restaurant … Read More
Pros: sharp, seasonal cuisine; wholesome proportions; intriguing wine list; friendly service Cons: rather trendy, characterless mise-en-scène As the annual Nuit Blanche festivities kicked off in more kinetic parts of the city, I ventured to a quiet bourgeois neighborhood near the … Read More
No Gluten, Just Glee for Gluttons The sushi-style bar in Noglu’s downstairs dining room. I have been wanting – with some apprehension – to try Noglu, Paris’s new gluten-free restaurant, ever since it opened. The perfect opportunity presented itself last … Read More
