If you find yourself on the Boulevard de Montparnasse after a film wondering where you can have a good meal, as we did the other evening, first leave the boulevard, with all its chain restaurants (unless, of course, you opt … Read More
The bistronomy movement has given Paris many great little restaurants serving creative, carefully sourced food at reasonable prices, but it has done little to make a mark on the design scene. Most of new bistros are content to cosmetically spiff up the interior of the restaurant or café they have taken over and add a few fancy light fixtures. Here, however, is an exception to the rule: Le Mordant.
This will be a short review, but not as short as the menu at Les Pinces, a new restaurant in the Marais where you can order only three things: a whole lobster, a lobster roll or a côte de bœuf (prime rib), each one priced at €25.
A few weeks ago, I reviewed Pirouette, a great little bistro near the Forum des Halles, and now I have tried its new baby sister, Zébulon, in another part of town where it’s often hard to find a reliably good meal, near the Palais Royal.
The working premise of this review is that if you eat at Prémices, you are sure to have an excellent dining experience. The restaurant’s decor is the first sign that you are in for something a cut above: it’s simple but elegant, with bare stone walls, an assortment of variously shaped black light fixtures and crystal shades casting spangles of light around the room, with its white-clothed tables.
The dire dining situation in the area around the Forum des Halles seems to be turning around, or should I say pirouetting, since I recently ate at a good bistro there called Pirouette. The restaurant is located on a small hidden square in a strange one-story structure with high ceilings and big industrial windows that looks as if it had been tacked onto the building next to it. Its large, traffic-free terrace must be a pleasant place to sit in warm weather.
The owners of the immensely (and deservedly) popular bistros Richer and L’Office in the 9th arrondissement have scored another hit with their new restaurant, 52 Faubourg Saint Denis in the 10th, adding yet another fine eatery to this up-and-coming gourmet … Read More
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED The restaurant Le Timbre, which owes its name to its postage-stamp-sized kitchen and a dining room that’s not much bigger, has had a new chef/owner, Charles Danet, since September, so it was time to make … Read More
THIS RESTAURANT HAS BEEN REPLACED BY SUR MER. When the original Verre Volé opened on the Rue du Lancry in Paris’s 10th arrondissement some 15 years ago, it was a tiny, funky place with a wonderful feeling of bonhomie, basically … Read More
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Allegra gets pizza right, especially the crust.Pizza, now the international food par excellence, no longer has to be made by Italians to be good. One of the most amazing I ever ate was from a … Read More
