![Les Trois Bornés](https://www.parisupdate.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/ParisUpdate-Trois-Bornés-restaurant.jpg)
The French word “borné” means “narrow-minded” or “blinkered,” but let’s give it a kinder translation: “having a one-track mind,” in this case, focusing on good food. It doesn’t really matter, however, since this new restaurant’s name is just a jokey pun on the name of a parallel street, Rue des Trois Bornes.
The three people in question, a mother and her two sons, have created an attractive bistro with stone and brick walls, banquettes, high and low wooden tables and a cozy nook in the back furnished with a sofa and coffee table.
The surprising thing about Les Trois Bornés is the size of the servings in a place that bills itself as bistronomic, to the point where my companion and I both had to ask for doggy bags (don’t forget: Paris restaurants are now required to provide them on request) because we were too full to finish our main courses.
![Pork and Jerusalem artichoke cream.](https://www.parisupdate.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/ParisUpdate-Trois-Bornés-restaurant-appetiizer-1024x756.jpg)
Even the appetizer was hearty: a pretty little bowl containing suckling pig with Jerusalem artichoke cream.
![Œuf croustillant.](https://www.parisupdate.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/ParisUpdate-Trois-Bornés-restaurant-egg-150x150.jpg)
For the first course, I had the œuf croustillant, a soft-boiled egg wrapped up in a frilly filo-pastry package with “smoked-milk.” It was perfectly prepared, with a runny yolk and crispy pastry, but it was bland enough that I had to ask for salt and pepper, a rare occurrence.
![Fried foie gras.](https://www.parisupdate.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/ParisUpdate-Trois-Bornés-restaurant-foie-gras.jpg)
My friend’s starter was excellent fried foie gras, rather strangely served with “November vegetables” in a stock with an unappealing flavor.
![Chicken with chestnut and cep cream.](https://www.parisupdate.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/ParisUpdate-Trois-Bornés-restaurant-chicken-150x150.jpg)
I thought my main course was rather fine: a large helping of super-tender chicken, both light and dark meat, sitting atop a paste of chestnuts and ceps, with Albufera sauce (made with foie gras) and fried ceps. It also tasted great the next day straight out of the doggy bag.
![Pork belly with fall vegetables.](https://www.parisupdate.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/ParisUpdate-Trois-Bornés-restaurant-pork.jpg)
My friend didn’t seem as happy with his stuffed pork belly with fall vegetables (the stuffing wasn’t very present), but it tasted fine to me.
![Apple tart served with cinnamon ice cream.](https://www.parisupdate.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/ParisUpdate-Trois-Bornés-restaurant-dessert-150x150.jpg)
For dessert, we shared a lovely flower-shaped apple tart served with cinnamon ice cream.
This is a great place to go when you have a big appetite, secure in the knowledge that you will be getting freshly made seasonal dishes and cheerful, motherly attention from the female bornée.
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