Moustache

October 19, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

The food at Moustache offers a judicious fusing of East and West.   Pros: Good ingredients, original fusion of traditions, pleasant decor Cons: Not in my neighborhood, a bit pricey The second time I went to eat at Moustache, my … Read More

Une Poule sur un Mur

October 12, 2010 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

The gambas were served on a bed of fried risotto.   Pros: Smiling service, quality food, quiet ambiance Cons: Food a bit too spicy Playing the game of Chicken can be extremely dangerous, but there is little risk involved in … Read More

Saturne

September 28, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive, Restaurants

      THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW PERMANENTLY CLOSED Pros: Great food, nice space Cons: Noisy Saturne has been an instant hit. I overheard J.P. Gené, food writer for Le Monde, mention its opening on a Tuesday a couple of … Read More

Spring

July 27, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Chef/owner Daniel Rose garnishes dishes at his restaurant Spring, now reopened in the first arrondissement. Pros: Great food, good service, plenty of space, attractive decor. Cons: Slight problem with the kitchen cleaning arrangements and, snob that I am, location: the … Read More

Le Louchébem

June 22, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Carving the slabs of roast meat at Le Louchébem. Photo © ParisUpdate.com Vegetarians should look away now. Le Louchébem is all about meat, and mostly about beef. Its signature dish is l’assiette du rôtisseur: three giant slabs carved off smoking … Read More

Americophilia in Paris restaurants

May 25, 2010 | By Heidi Ellison | Archive

The salade pastilla de poulet at the Café du Marché on the Rue de Bretagne in the Upper Marais. A wave of Americophilia seems to have hit Paris lately. Every restaurant popular with thirtyish trendies now has a hamburger (pronounced … Read More

Café de la Nouvelle Mairie

May 18, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

A great place for an enjoyable, torture-free evening with friends. Pros: Good organic wines, great vibe. Cons: Food could be improved on, too many wines to taste at one sitting. It would be difficult to get any closer to the … Read More

Clémentine

April 20, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Old-timey comfort and good, fresh food. Pros: Fresh vegetables, well-chosen wines, pleasant atmosphere.Cons: None to speak of. Attentive readers will have noticed a second arrondissement bias in my recent reviews, and this one is no exception: I’ve been checking out … Read More

La Closerie des Lilas

April 6, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Every struggling American writer on the way to a date with destiny has passed through the Closerie. Places associated with literary figures… hmm. The Deux Magots will forever bring to mind Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, but one can’t … Read More