High Table If Les Cocottes is modeled on an Amiercan diner, it must be a very classy one. After our foray into Constant-land last year, I went back to give Christian Constant’s latest addition to his stable of restaurants … Read More
A Best in Bistros The basic decor belies the quality of the food. February 22, 2006; updated March 19, 2008 Who would expect such a fine meal from such an unassuming little bistro? The Café des Musées, situated on a … Read More
National Comfort Food A simple, cozy setting. On the sort of cold, blustery night we’ve been having in Paris recently, my thoughts turn to comfort food and my abiding passion for couscous. The vegetables in broth and the hunks of … Read More
Technicolor Treats The chefs work behind a window, like fish in an aquarium. Updated Nov. 12, 2008 As we pushed through the doors and entered the chic interior of Ze Kitchen Galerie, the warmth of chef William Ledeuil’s welcoming smile … Read More
Eye Candy for Food Lovers THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Click here to read 2013 review. Readers may recall that the answer to the ultimate question about Life, the Universe and Everything in Douglas Adams’s The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the … Read More
Go East with Westermann The decor is clean and understated, with a half-timbered backdrop. In one of this restaurant’s previous incarnations, long, long before Mon Vieil Ami was launched four years ago by Antoine Westermann, the Michelin-starred (for his restaurant … Read More
Sideways to the Messinas’ The name of this Sicilian restaurant – Les Amis des Messina – refers to the friends of the Messina family, and the slick PR on the restaurant’s Web site says that the first restaurant on the … Read More
Lessons from Across the Channel The meltingly tender pork. The Seven Stars pub in London’s Bloomsbury, just off Lincoln’s Inn Fields and facing the forbidding rear of the Central Law Courts, was founded when the first Queen Elizabeth was still … Read More
Eating Down Below Al least the basement is brightened with colorful murals. The French trade newspaper L’Hôtellerie Restauration, which advertises such well-known and admired produits du terroir as vacuum-cooked, ready-to-serve poached eggs, ready-made steak tartare preparation, and deep-frozen tutti quanti, … Read More
Gluttony Rewarded Inventive dishes and top-quality ingredients in an enoteca decor. Finding the kind of Italian food in Paris that home-grown Italians would be proud of is no easy task. And I was especially eager to find some after a … Read More
