I have always loved Lebanese food, but most Paris specialists in that version of Middle Eastern cuisine have, until now, served a standardized version of it, some better than others (one of my favorites is Loubnane).
At Kubri (“bridge” in Arabic), things are done a bit differently. The restaurant was founded by two Franco-Lebanese sisters Mayfrid and Ingrid Chehlaoui, and cheffe Rita Higgins, who has already sharpened her knives at restaurants in Beirut and Tokyo, and now concocts traditional dishes with a contemporary twist in Paris.
The results are no short of amazing, which explains the extreme difficulty of getting a reservation in this small place.
When we finally got in for Saturday lunch, we shared everything, starting with the dorade nayye: sea bream tartar with kammouné (a mix of herbs, spices and bulgar), kumquat, fennel flowers and dill oil. Sublime!
It was perfectly complemented by the delicious whipped labneh (strained yogurt) accompanied by feta cheese, grilled broccolini, black olives, radishes and fines herbes.
Next up: perfectly cooked octopus swimming in a pool of musabbaha, a warm, chunky, more liquid version of hummus, surrounded by beautiful olive oil and enhanced with coriander salsa, pickled turnip and fresh herbs.
The tender, gorgeously roasted half-chicken with toum (garlic cream) and dried lime couldn’t have been better. It sat on a bed of labneh and was moistened with a lemony jus.
Those four dishes satisfied the appetites of three of us at lunchtime, but they were so good that we couldn’t resist ordering dessert. It was the right decision.
The nammoura, a luscious lemon and almond cake, was topped with honey-sweetened labneh sprinkled with marigold flowers.
The frozen halvah with almonds and pistachios was artfully accompanied by a two-color pool of chocolate sauce and artisanal raw tahini.
“Wow” to both desserts and to every one of the original interpretations of beautifully produced Lebanese dishes we tasted that day. Just make sure you book well in advance. If you can’t get in on your chosen date, Jolia is an excellent alternative.
See our Favorite Restaurants by Arrondissement page to find a good restaurant in the neighborhood where you want to eat.
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