Cibus
A display of wild mushrooms at Cibus. I take Italian food personally: it reminds me of feasting on my grandmother’s slow-cooked, seasonal dishes surrounded by my family. For me, the secret of Italian cuisine … Favorite
Paris restaurant
Le Petit Canard
Duck, Duck, No Goose
Click here for a more recent review of this restaurant. A recent survey reported that the current favorite dish of the French is magret de canard, which came as a surprise to me, as it is served relatively rarely in … Read More
Pottoka
Pottoka: a Basque-flavored micro-bistro in the 7th. Pros: hearty meats; buzzy, neighborly atomosphere Cons: cramped dining; expensive à la carte On a rainy All Souls Day (“La Toussaint” in France) I sought refuge in a micro-bistro nestled on a handsome … Read More
Le Temps des Cerises
Old Montmartre mural at Le Temps des Cerises. Pros: aimiable atmosphere, reasonable prices, decent food, old-timey decor Cons: noisy and cramped, but who cares? It’s small, cramped, crowded and noisy. And, while the food is hearty, copious and tasty, it’s … Read More
Kunitoraya II
Japanese flavors meet french traditions
Pros: charming interior, high-level cuisine, judicious mix of genres, fine selection of sake and wine, highly attentive service Cons: no natural wines, rather expensive, unremarkable dessert It seems like everyone in Paris has been talking about Kunitoraya II, piquing … Read More
Le Bien Décidé
Star-Backed Bistro Puts on a Good Act
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Pros: fresh food; easygoing, accommodating service; pretty decor; reasonably priced wine Cons: out-of-season asparagus, desserts lacking in oomph At first glance, Le Bien Décidé seems to be a meat-eaters’ paradise – the extremely limited menu … Read More
Le Garde Temps
Solicitous Service and Hearty Nouvelle Cuisine
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Pros: Excellent, friendly service; quality ingredients and mostly good cooking Cons: Some dishes needed work, no fixed-price menu, noisy The service at Le Garde Temps, a railroad-car-shaped restaurant just down the street from the Moulin … Read More
Jaja Restaurant
A Fine Finish and Friendly Buzz
Pros: Tantalizing menu; quality, fresh ingredients; relaxed, charming atmosphere; personable service Cons: Rather unfocused fixed-price menu When my foodie father asked me, across the Skype lines from Florida, “What’s the perfect dish for a hot day?” I floundered, though, to … Read More
Frenchie Wine Bar
Successful Re-Frenchification
Pros: Tip-top ingredients, creative cooking, friendly atmosphere and service, reasonable prices Cons: Rather noisy, uncomfortable stools After enjoying two utterly delightful meals at Frenchie soon after it opened in 2009, I wanted to go back often and introduce friends to … Read More
L’Agrume
L’Agrume, in Paris’s fifth arrondissement, lives up to the highest culinary standards. Pros: fresh, quality food; an elegant, price-delivering menu Cons: expensive à la carte, slightly off-the-beaten track Paris’s fifth arrondissement doesn’t offer many thrilling eateries unless one ventures slightly … Read More