Ze Kitchen Galerie

March 11, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Technicolor Treats The chefs work behind a window, like fish in an aquarium. Updated Nov. 12, 2008 As we pushed through the doors and entered the chic interior of Ze Kitchen Galerie, the warmth of chef William Ledeuil’s welcoming smile … Read More


March 11, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Eye Candy for Food Lovers THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Click here to read 2013 review. Readers may recall that the answer to the ultimate question about Life, the Universe and Everything in Douglas Adams’s The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the … Read More

Mon Vieil Ami

February 12, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Go East with Westermann The decor is clean and understated, with a half-timbered backdrop. In one of this restaurant’s previous incarnations, long, long before Mon Vieil Ami was launched four years ago by Antoine Westermann, the Michelin-starred (for his restaurant … Read More

Les Amis des Messina

February 5, 2008 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Sideways to the Messinas’ The name of this Sicilian restaurant – Les Amis des Messina – refers to the friends of the Messina family, and the slick PR on the restaurant’s Web site says that the first restaurant on the … Read More

Les Diables au Thym

December 4, 2007 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Lessons from Across the Channel The meltingly tender pork. The Seven Stars pub in London’s Bloomsbury, just off Lincoln’s Inn Fields and facing the forbidding rear of the Central Law Courts, was founded when the first Queen Elizabeth was still … Read More

Le Pré Verre

November 13, 2007 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Eating Down Below Al least the basement is brightened with colorful murals. The French trade newspaper L’Hôtellerie Restauration, which advertises such well-known and admired produits du terroir as vacuum-cooked, ready-to-serve poached eggs, ready-made steak tartare preparation, and deep-frozen tutti quanti, … Read More

I Golosi

September 4, 2007 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Gluttony Rewarded Inventive dishes and top-quality ingredients in an enoteca decor. Finding the kind of Italian food in Paris that home-grown Italians would be proud of is no easy task. And I was especially eager to find some after a … Read More

Maison du Jardin

June 19, 2007 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Hot and Cold Reception, Pleasure on the Plate The Maison du Jardin doesn’t have its own garden, but it is located near one of Paris’s most beautiful, the Luxembourg Garden. If you are welcomed to La Maison du Jardin by … Read More


June 10, 2007 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

A Winner, Front and Back May 9, 2007 Gordon Ramsay, known for his 15 restaurants and very bad language, has an occasional TV series called “Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares,” in which the ubiquitous überchef is invited into a failing restaurant to … Read More

Hotel Amour

June 6, 2006 | By Heidi Ellison | Hotels & Short-term Rentals

Coolness Credentials High, Prices Low The room decorated by the artist André in the Hotel Amour. It is not true, as the French press has reported, that the new Hôtel Amour is the Parisian version of Japanese Love Hotels, where … Read More