Heidi Ellison
Champeaux
Vive Champeaux, À Bas la Canopée!
A recent article in The Guardian called the Canopée, the new roof over the Forum des Halles in the center of Paris, a “custard-colored flop.” I’d be more inclined to call it a regurgitated-custard-colored flop; custard doesn’t deserve such treatment.
Mamagoto
Playtime Is Over, Let the Fun Begin!
There was nothing really wrong with the restaurant Playtime, which used to occupy the space that is now home to Mamagoto, not far from the Gare de l’Est. The food was very good and the decor attractive.
Elle
Scary Effects of Flat Affect
Paul Verhoeven’s Elle is a scary film, not so much because of the sickening violence and twisted sexuality – hey, we’re used to that – or because of its use of horror-film tropes – “Don’t do that,” you scream silently … Read More
Za
Digital-Era Automat: Gimmicks Galore
The dining room at Za.It sounds like tons of fun. You take a seat at one of the long tables at the new restaurant Za (design by Philippe Starck; seats 128!), under the just-inaugurated new roof (called “La Canopé”) over the renovated Forum des Halles in the heart of Paris and slap your smartphone down on the numbered spot on the countertop in front of you.
Sunset
Unexpected Pleasures of Lunch in a Trendy Bar
The front dining room at Sunset.You would be forgiven for doubting the possibility of getting a good meal at this trendy 18th-arrondissement restaurant and bar with the California-style name Sunset, but you would be very wrong. I recently had an excellent lunch there with a friend.
Le Petit Keller
Share and Share Alike, For Better or Worse
The dining room at Le Petit KellerRegular readers know that I love to share food in restaurants. Not only do you get to taste more dishes than you normally would, but it is also more fun and convivial.
Paul Klee: L’Ironie à l’Œuvre
Art as Play and Intellectual Exercise
Paul Klee (1879-1940) is generally acknowledged as one of the greats of modern art, but it’s difficult to think of a single powerful work or style that represents him, the way “Guernica” might, for example, pop into your mind when … Read More
Le Bouchon et l’Assiette
Don’t Put Off Until Tomorrow A Meal You Can Have Today
A friend has been telling me for some time that I would love a restaurant in her neighborhood called Le Bouchon et L’Assiette. The other day I finally got to try it with her and, as I suspected, she was absolutely right.
Deux Fois Plus de Piments
Some Like It Hot, Some Like It Hotter
I have never been too hot on Chinese restaurants in Paris since so many serve up frozen versions of the Cantonese standards, but that has been changing as more and more offer authentic, freshly made regional cuisine. When searching for … Read More
La Taverne de Zhao
Some Like It Hot, Some Like It Hotter
I have never been too hot on Chinese restaurants in Paris since so many serve up frozen versions of the Cantonese standards, but that has been changing as more and more offer authentic, freshly made regional cuisine. When searching for … Read More