Heidi Ellison
Semilla
Unhappy Marriages, Stunning Finale
Since it was recommended in an article in The New York Times recently, I was sure that – after rather disappointing meals in the past few weeks at La Canaille and Le Cotte Rotie – my friend Connie and I were … Read More
What’s New in Paris: La Cave Vagabonde, Les Caves de Prague
Paris Update What’s New in Paris WINE ON THE WATER Why go to the wine shop when the wine shop can come to you, at least if you live on a Parisian canal. The converted barge Caroline, a.k.a. the Cave … Read More
Beauvais
A Destination, Not an Airport The Maladrerie Saint Lazare, where the lepers of Beauvais once lived. Photo: ParisUpdate.com Every time I mention to friends that I have visited Beauvais, they laugh. This can be explained by the fact that many … Read More
Le Cotte Rôti
Where the Customer Is Not Always Right
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW UNDER NEW OWNERSHIP Our meal at Le Cotte Rôti started off quite nicely. After greeting my two friends and me and ushering us to our table, the waiter enthusiastically explained in great (too much?) detail every … Read More
Requins: L’Expo-Sensation
Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Shark? A blacktip reef shark. Photo: T. Ameller. Musée Océanographic de Monaco. Sharks have a seriously bad rep, but just because they chomp on an occasional surfer doesn’t mean that they are truly vicious … Read More
La Canaille
Good-bye Anarchists, Hello Bistronomy
When I was invited to an event celebrating the publication of the new edition of Les Bistrots de Chef à Paris, by Claire Delbos and Gérard Cambon, I was surprised to find myself in a pretty restaurant near Bastille, La … Read More
Rillettes
Lard Day’s Night Chez Mom and Pop
I had heard high praise of Rillettes, a mom-and-pop restaurant in Paris’ ninth arrondissement, from two different friends, but it had been on my list for a while before I finally got there. When we arrived in this homey, cozy … Read More
French Restaurants without Chefs
Keep an Eye on the Chef
Let’s all be grateful for the current popularity of open kitchens in Paris bistros. They allow us to keep an eye on what the chefs and their assistants are up to, and ensure us that they are not just dropping … Read More
Grenier des Grands-Augustins
Paris Update Flash News GOOD-BYE GRENIER? One of the most magical places in Paris, the Grenier des Grands-Augustins, is being threatened with closure. Picasso lived and worked in this attic atelier in a 17th-century Left Bank building from 1936 to … Read More
L’Office Revisited
New Chef's Cuisine Hits the Right Spots
We reviewed L’Office only about a year ago, but a return visit was in order, since chef Kevin O’Donnell had been replaced by Yosuke Yamaji, an alumni of the kitchens of Alain Ducasse and Joël Robuchon. I assembled a crack … Read More