Heidi Ellison
Georgia O’Keeffe
A Painter's Painter
Georgia O’Keeffe (1887–1986) is mega-famous in the United States for her flower paintings, almost to the point of oversaturation, but the current retrospective at Paris’s Centre Pompidou shows just how much more there was to the work of this versatile … Read More
Brigade du Tigre Restaurant
Tiger Burning Bright
Just around the corner from Eels, one of my favorite restaurants in Paris, is Brigade du Tigre, another place opened by Eels chef Adrien Ferrand and another chef, Galien Emery (both trained by superchef William Ledeuil), this time in the … Read More
Travels in France: Saint Jean de Luz
How I Spent My Summer Vacation, Part II
Saint Jean de Luz, a chic Basque fishing port on the Atlantic coast near the Spanish border, has a distinguished history: none other than Louis XIV was married in 1660 in its Église Saint Jean Baptiste to Maria Teresa of … Read More
Rrose C’est la Life: Agnès Thurnauer
Transgender Art
Many agreeable surprises are to be found in the French provinces, not the least of which are contemporary art spaces in the most unexpected places. One example is the Centre d’Art Contemporain at the Bouvet Ladubay winery in Saumur, which … Read More
Alleudium Restaurant
New Addition to Gourmet Hood
Alleudium is one of those restaurants that had the bad luck to open just before Covid struck and Paris went into lockdown, but it has managed to survive in what may actually be a propitious location: the unprepossessing Rue de … Read More
Travels in France: the Dordogne
How I Spent My Summer Vacation, Part I
With all the confusion about red countries and different vaccination and quarantine requirements, the outlook wasn’t good for a foreign vacation this summer, so I decided to spend mine in France. No hardship there. The question was, where to go? … Read More
Paris Update Events 25.08.2021
September 4 Twenty-four-hour Picassofest The Picasso Museum stays open for 24 hours and presents concerts, DJ sets, readings, talks, performances, a film and a dawn meditation session in honor of the artist. Reserve on the website. September 4 Covid-inspired creative … Read More
Salgado Amazônia
Paradise Transformed
The first thing you see when you enter the darkened “Salgado Amazônia” exhibition space in the Musée de la Musique at the Philharmonie de Paris will knock your socks off: a large, grainy, high-contrast black-and-white print of heavy, roiling, black-edged … Read More
The Power of My Hands
Threading the Lines of Filiation
Speaking of women-only exhibitions (see last week’s review of “Women in Abstraction”), I recommend a visit to the show “The Power of My Hands” at the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris, which presents the work of 16 African women artists … Read More
Hôtel Rochechouart Restaurant
Good-Looking Decor and Customers
What a shock to walk down the seedy Boulevard de Rochechouart during lockdown and come across a building with a beautiful Art Deco facade and a large, perfectly appointed brasserie visible through the window. Where had it come from? In … Read More