Heidi Ellison
Paris Update Press Review
This Week's Good Reads about Paris and France
Art from north to south For all art lovers raring to return to France, here’s a guide to art events ranging from FIAC (Paris’s major contemporary art fair) to the Luma Arles art complex, where Frank Gehry’s golden tower looms … Read More
The Morozov Collection: Icons of Modern Art
Collecting Fever in Pre-Revolutionary Russia
The Fondation Louis Vuitton is presenting another blockbuster exhibition of a major Russian art collection, “The Morozov Collection: Icons of Modern Art,” following up on 2016-17’s showing of the amazing Shchukin Collection. The Morozov Collection, full of masterpieces by great … Read More
Louis Vins Restaurant
Back to the Latin Quarter
Louis Vins has been replaced by LAVA. Last week, we reviewed the restaurant Narro, a rare gourmet gem in the midst of student-central in the Latin Quarter. This week, we miraculously found yet another fabulous restaurant not far away in … Read More
Paris Update Press Review
This Week's Good Reads about Paris and France
Arc de Triomphe sheds its wrapping Sunday, October 3, was the last day of the art installation “Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped,” created by the late Christo and Jeanne-Claude, which delighted more than 800,000 visitors over a period of three weeks. … Read More
Narro Restaurant
Island of Calm amid Latin Quarter Uproar
The Latin Quarter, around Rue Mouffetard and Place de la Contrascarpe, was positively roaring the other night, with every café and restaurant terrace packed with mostly young people raucously enjoying themselves. Luckily, I had reserved a table for two at … Read More
Georgia O’Keeffe
A Painter's Painter
Georgia O’Keeffe (1887–1986) is mega-famous in the United States for her flower paintings, almost to the point of oversaturation, but the current retrospective at Paris’s Centre Pompidou shows just how much more there was to the work of this versatile … Read More
Brigade du Tigre Restaurant
Tiger Burning Bright
Just around the corner from Eels, one of my favorite restaurants in Paris, is Brigade du Tigre, another place opened by Eels chef Adrien Ferrand and another chef, Galien Emery (both trained by superchef William Ledeuil), this time in the … Read More
Travels in France: Saint Jean de Luz
How I Spent My Summer Vacation, Part II
Saint Jean de Luz, a chic Basque fishing port on the Atlantic coast near the Spanish border, has a distinguished history: none other than Louis XIV was married in 1660 in its Église Saint Jean Baptiste to Maria Teresa of … Read More
Rrose C’est la Life: Agnès Thurnauer
Transgender Art
Many agreeable surprises are to be found in the French provinces, not the least of which are contemporary art spaces in the most unexpected places. One example is the Centre d’Art Contemporain at the Bouvet Ladubay winery in Saumur, which … Read More
Alleudium Restaurant
New Addition to Gourmet Hood
Alleudium is one of those restaurants that had the bad luck to open just before Covid struck and Paris went into lockdown, but it has managed to survive in what may actually be a propitious location: the unprepossessing Rue de … Read More