Heidi Ellison
La Table d’Ugo
No Fishing for Compliments
When the restaurant critic for the magazine Télérama described a meal at a new Paris restaurant, La Table d’Ugo, as a “feast” and raved about each and every dish he sampled there, my immediate reaction was to pick up the … Read More
52 Faubourg Saint-Denis
Three’s Lucky for These Bistro Entrepreneurs
Note, Feb. 14, 2022: L’Office now has new owners and is still great. The owners of the immensely (and deservedly) popular bistros Richer and L’Office in the 9th arrondissement have scored another hit with their new restaurant, 52 Faubourg Saint … Read More
Four and a Quarter
Paris Update What’s New in Paris TOTAL IMMERSION THEATER Cinémorphe, the most inventive theater company in Paris, is staging a new production this month called 4¼. These specialists in immersive theater like to surprise their audience, so all they will … Read More
Le Timbre
Does Size Matter? Not in This Fine Bistro
The restaurant Le Timbre, which owes its name to its postage-stamp-sized kitchen and a dining room that’s not much bigger, has had a new chef/owner, Charles Danet, since September, so it was time to make a return visit to this … Read More
Le Verre Volé sur Mer
Fishing Expedition in The Tenth Arrondissement
THIS RESTAURANT HAS BEEN REPLACED BY SUR MER. The decor is great fun, except for the uncomfortable stools.When the original Verre Volé opened on the Rue du Lancry in Paris’s 10th arrondissement some 15 years ago, it was a tiny, … Read More
Dix-Huit
Picking the Winning Number
An attractive interior is only one of Dix-Huit’s attractions.The owners of Dix-Huit didn’t show as much imagination when naming their restaurant as they did when creating the menu and the casual-chic decor, with colorful cushions on the banquettes, a big … Read More
Mommy
Teenage Jekyll and Hyde and His Dearest Mommy
Mommy, the latest film by French-Canadian wunderkind Xavier Dolan, is no Mommy Dearest. If anything, it is the child who is abusive in this tale of a dysfunctional mother- son unit. Mommy is Diane (Anne Dorval), feisty, attractive and sexy … Read More
Café Trama
Getting Out of the 10th to Dine in a ‘Chic’ Neighborhood
Café Trama vibrates with a lively buzz.A reader named Alexandra recently wrote in to complain that Paris Update reviews too many restaurants in the 10th arrondissement, saying, “For us frequent visitors in Paris, other than two train stations, there isn’t … Read More
Allegra
Another Paris Option When Pining for Pizza
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Allegra gets pizza right, especially the crust.Pizza, now the international food par excellence, no longer has to be made by Italians to be good. One of the most amazing I ever ate was from a … Read More
Will
Where There’s a Will, There’s an Excellent Meal
The decor is simple, the food simply delicious. I wouldn’t say that my friend Helen is willful, but she was rather insistent about me trying Will, a restaurant she had eaten at a couple of months ago, and I thank … Read More