Heidi Ellison
Au Rendez-vous des Camionneurs
Au Rendez-vous des Camionneurs
Au Rendez-vous des Camionneurs looks like anything but a truck stop, especially now that its new owners have spiffed up its interior with orange tables and turquoise banquettes and the menu with sophisticated dishes. It’s especially hard to imagine an … Read More
Neva Cuisine
Just Desserts in Train-Track Desert
Located near the no-man’s-land created by the train tracks running out of the Gare Saint Lazare, Neva Cuisine is something of an anomaly in the neighborhood. With its elegantly simple modern furnishings, high ceilings and 19th-century-style glass-ball chandeliers, it looks … Read More
Ciacco
La Mamma Keeps Customers Happy
If there were any doubt about Paris Update’s former restaurant reviewer Richard Hesse’s ability to sniff out a good restaurant, it can now be put to rest. On a visit to Paris recently from his new home across the Channel, … Read More
Abri
Far More than Just Shelter from the Storm
The restaurant Abri, whose name means “shelter,” literally provided refuge from the rain on a recent October evening, although I almost walked by its unassuming, brightly lit glass façade — from the street it looks more like a takeaway sandwich … Read More
Restaurant Pierre-Sang
Leftover Night: Hard Cheese Indeed
The new restaurant recently opened on the Rue Oberkampf in Paris’s 11th arrondissement by Pierre-Sang Boyer, a 2011 “Top Chef” contestant, had garnered some good reviews, and I was looking forward to trying it out. Our meal there on a … Read More
The New Procopio Angelo
Angelo′s Version of Italian Paradise
When I heard that the hole-in-the-wall restaurant Procopio Angelo, which served up some of the best and most authentic Italian food in Paris, had closed, I was desolate. I would never again taste chef Angelo′s creamy burrata smothered with San … Read More
Paris Vu par Hollywood
City of light and licentiousness While visiting “Paris Vu par Hollywood,” the new exhibition at Paris’s Hôtel de Ville, I realized that the dreamily romantic vision Americans have of Paris probably owes as much, if not more, to the eight … Read More
Coude à Coude
Where Has All the Offal Gone?
I have a sad tale to tell today. Last night I went to a restaurant called Coude à Coude near the Forum des Halles. The first time I went there a couple of years ago, our table was the only … Read More
Auberge Flora
Flora’s New Queendom Already Winning Hearts
One of the friends I dined with recently at Auberge Flora proclaimed it the best restaurant meal she’d had in the 10 years she’s lived in Paris. For me that vote would still go to Spring, which is admittedly more … Read More
Terroir Parisien
High Expectations for Top Chef’s Locavore Bistro
When Yannick Alléno, three-star chef at the Hôtel Meurice, opens a new restaurant, Parisians sit up and take notice. The excited buzz started even before the place opened, raising expectations to the point where many critics were disappointed with the … Read More