Richard Hesse

Richard Hesse, another long-time Paris resident, is a translator by day and a serial diner by evening. He also likes to lunch. He is joined in these activities by his Scottish terrier, Bertie the Gastrohound, and his girlfriend, Doctor Madame, a London-based freelance historian.


October 19, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

The food at Moustache offers a judicious fusing of East and West.   Pros: Good ingredients, original fusion of traditions, pleasant decor Cons: Not in my neighborhood, a bit pricey The second time I went to eat at Moustache, my … Read More


September 28, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Saturne is as good as all the reviewers have been saying. Pros: Great food, nice space Cons: Noisy Saturne has been an instant hit. I overheard J.P. Gené, food writer for Le Monde, mention its opening on a Tuesday a … Read More

Chez Georges

September 7, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

The generous eggs-mayo at Chez Georges came with a garnish of sliced tomatoes. On a steaming day back in July, I sank gratefully into my seat in the comfortably air-conditioned back room at Chez Georges, an old-style, seemingly eternal … … Read More


July 27, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Chef/owner Daniel Rose garnishes dishes at his restaurant Spring, now reopened in the first arrondissement. Pros: Great food, good service, plenty of space, attractive decor. Cons: Slight problem with the kitchen cleaning arrangements and, snob that I am, location: the … Read More

Racines Revisited

July 13, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Is he looking for the waiter at Racines? Pros Excellently sourced food, simply prepared Cons No wine list, high prices, no lunch special, lackadaisical service Although it took a few months to reach me, the word on the street was … Read More

Château Poivre

July 6, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

The poached egg with tomato coulis and cilantro cream. Photo © Pros: More-than-decent food, good wines, pleasant service Cons: service a bit slow, decor needs a rethink Just back from a week in rural Ontario with some of my … Read More

Le Louchébem

June 22, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Archive

Carving the slabs of roast meat at Le Louchébem. Photo © Vegetarians should look away now. Le Louchébem is all about meat, and mostly about beef. Its signature dish is l’assiette du rôtisseur: three giant slabs carved off smoking … Read More

Sardines & Chocolate

June 15, 2010 | By Richard Hesse | Food Shops, Shopping

One of the most interesting bits of Paris is the stretch of Rue de Belleville between the Pyrenées and Jourdain Métro stations, which was my stamping ground for a while. It’s young and has a vibe and plenty of good … Read More