Heidi Ellison
La Balançoire
The kids have got it right at La Balançoire. Pros: solicitous service, lighthearted atmosphere, generous spirit Cons: none La Balançoire, a new bistro in Montmartre, has a juvenile nostalgia theme going for it: one of the seats is a real … Read More
Capitaine Fracasse
FLOATING DINNER
Having never before tried one of those dinner boats plying the Seine, I recently tested the new menu created by chef Martial Enguehard (Meilleur Ouvrier de France, formerly of Lucas Carton and the Crillon) for the Capitaine Fracasse. The food … Read More
Au Passage
Not much has changed at Au Passage over the years except the food. Pros: happy atmosphere; delicious, inventive food; reasonable prices and sound levels; good service Cons: better ventilation needed in the kitchen It is highly unlikely that you would … Read More
Impressionist Gallery, Musée d’Orsay
GOOD IMPRESSION The new Impressionist gallery at the Musée d’Orsay. © Musée d’Orsay/Sophie-Boegly The spacious, newly renovated Impressionist gallery at the Musée d’Orsay is a huge improvement over the old one. The paintings pop out dramatically and glow with color … Read More
Le Temps des Cerises
Old Montmartre mural at Le Temps des Cerises. Pros: aimiable atmosphere, reasonable prices, decent food, old-timey decor Cons: noisy and cramped, but who cares? It’s small, cramped, crowded and noisy. And, while the food is hearty, copious and tasty, it’s … Read More
Quedubon Revisited
iPhone App Saves the Evening
Pros: hearty, unpretentious food; great, crusty bread; big wine list; warm ambiance Cons: cooking times need attention After a stroll through Paris’s Parc des Buttes Chaumont on a recent Indian summer evening, a friend and I were wondering where we … Read More
Le Bien Décidé
Star-Backed Bistro Puts on a Good Act
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Pros: fresh food; easygoing, accommodating service; pretty decor; reasonably priced wine Cons: out-of-season asparagus, desserts lacking in oomph At first glance, Le Bien Décidé seems to be a meat-eaters’ paradise – the extremely limited menu … Read More
Le Garde Temps
Solicitous Service and Hearty Nouvelle Cuisine
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Pros: Excellent, friendly service; quality ingredients and mostly good cooking Cons: Some dishes needed work, no fixed-price menu, noisy The service at Le Garde Temps, a railroad-car-shaped restaurant just down the street from the Moulin … Read More
Salome
Salome (Angela Denoke) remained fully clothed and veil-free throughout the famous dance of the seven veils. Photo: Opéra National de Paris/Elisa Haberer The poetry of Oscar Wilde and the music of Richard Strauss paired with a story that offers equal … Read More
La Guerre Est Déclarée
After seeing that the new movie La Guerre Est Déclarée (Declaration of War) had received an aggregate four-and-a-half out of five stars from French critics, I rushed out to see it on opening day without reading any of the reviews … Read More