Heidi Ellison
Berthe Morisot
Not Just a Pretty Painter
Berthe Morisot (1841-95), a key French Impressionist painter, has not been the subject of a major exhibition in France since 1941. Is this because she was a woman and therefore dismissed as a minor painter? Perhaps. The current exhibition of … Read More
Sōma Restaurant
EZ Eating at an Izakaya
Japan is the flavor of the day in Paris, whether we’re talking about young Japanese chefs cooking French or Japanese food with flair or a hybrid of the two. The trendy, French-owned Sōma, which has just opened its second branch … Read More
Time Capsule at Fluctuart
Fluctuat nec Mergitur
Fluctuart is a gallery, but not a white cube. It’s a street-art gallery, but it’s located on the River Seine, not on the street. And, interestingly, graffiti artists would have a hard time defacing (or beautifying, depending on your point … Read More
Marso & Co Restaurant
Life Is (Good) Food
Much-lauded chef Tomy Gousset, owner of the Michelin-one-starred Tomy & Co (seventh arrondissement) and Hugo & Co (fifth), has just moved into new Left Bank territory – a corner of the 13th arrondissement not particularly known for its gourmet hotspots … Read More
City Prince/sses
The Tempestuous Kingdom of Creation
Paris’s Palais de Tokyo recently traveled to five sprawling mega-cities – Dhaka, Lagos, Manila, Mexico City and Tehran – in search of artists who push the boundaries of contemporary art with outrageous and/or outsized works. The result is “City Prince/sses,” … Read More
Aux Crus de Bourgogne Restaurant
Flashback to Past Favorites
I have a long history with Aux Crus de Bourgogne, having won the heart of the waiter the first time I went there by helping him fold napkins at the end of the evening. That was many years ago, and … Read More
Fields of Love: 100 Years of Rainbow Cinema
LGBTQI+ Filmfest
The importance of representation was brought home to me many years ago when a friend told me he had cried on seeing a mediocre 1982 film called Making Love because it was the first film with gay protagonists he had … Read More
Mokko Restaurant
Scout's Honor: It's Good
I rely on a network of informants – friends, readers and colleagues – to help me decide which restaurants to test and review. One of the most reliable is a certain Jean-Michel, a man with high culinary standards and an … Read More
Alberto Giacometti: Narrating the Body
Variations on a Theme
Alberto Giacometti may seem like a known quantity, but clever curators can still find ways to surprise us. That will be a constant challenge for the Fondation Giacometti, which opened a new space last year in a gorgeous Art Deco … Read More
Le Récepteur
Summer Surprise
On a recent Sunday afternoon, I was planning to give an architectural tour in the 16th arrondissement and was looking for a good restaurant in the area that would be open on Sunday evening, a near-impossible task. My two first … Read More