Heidi Ellison
Le Train Bleu
A Trip Worth Taking
The Paris restaurant with the most spectacular decor is, of course, Le Train Bleu, but its culinary credentials have gone up and down (mostly down) over the years as the restaurant sailed along, relying on its Belle Époque beauty and … Read More
The Cruel Stories of Paula Rego
The Phantasmagoria of Female Reality
The first time I saw Paula Rego’s storytelling paintings at the Tate Britain in London, I was fascinated by their almost perverse weirdness. Finally, a Paris museum, the Musée de l’Orangerie, has turned its attention to this unique artist with … Read More
Au Bascou Restaurant
Big Game Night
Au Bascou is something of an institution on Paris’s Basque restaurant scene. Over the years, it has changed hands a few times, and now a new chef/owner has taken over, brightened the place up with a fresh coat of paint … Read More
Jean-Michel Basquiat & Egon Schiele
Art-World Bad Boys Face Off
The Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris is simultaneously holding two blockbuster exhibitions, one on Jean-Michel Basquiat (1960-1988) and the other on Egon Schiele (1890-1918). The show on Basquiat, a young painter who went from being an iconoclast to an art-market … Read More
Korus Restaurant
Love Reborn
I was saddened when a friend who, like me, loved the Basque restaurant Iratze told me that it had closed, but I recently discovered that it hadn’t really. The same owners, a friendly young couple, are still there, but … Read More
Paris Update Events 24.10.18
October 29-31 From one home to another The contents of the four homes of Pierre Bergé, with art and objects dating from Antiquity to the modern era, will be auctioned off. Sotheby’s, Paris October 26-31 Science film festival Films on … Read More
Paris Update Events 17.10.18
October 18-21 Monster contemporary art fair Nearly 200 galleries show their wares at FIAC. Grand Palais, Paris October 17-21 Asian art Asia Now: 30 contemporary galleries showing work by Asian artists. Above: “The Autumn Wind in the Hollow,” by He … Read More
Picasso: Blue and Rose
When Picasso Had the Blues
Just as I was going into the exhibition “Picasso: Bleu et Rose” at the Musée d’Orsay, a man who was on his way out said to me: “I envy you. You’re going to have a wonderful experience.” His face was … Read More
Grive Restaurant
Back to the Source
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED Full disclosure: I went to the restaurant Grive with a friend who happens to be the mother of the chef. You will just have to take my word for it that this is an impartial review. … Read More
Paris Street Furniture Breakdown
The Uglification of Paris
In principle, I am a supporter of Paris’s current mayor, Anne Hidalgo, who is up for re-election next year, but I strongly resent the way she has allowed the introduction of so many ugly elements into the streets of … Read More