Heidi Ellison
Les Halles
Out with the Old Halles, In with Another New One
In 1971, Bob Crimi, a young American painter who was living in Marseilles at the time, paid a couple of short visits to Paris, camera in hand. Two places in particular grabbed his attention: the Jeu de Paume, where France’s … Read More
Bonvivant
The Good Life? Almost, but Not Quite
When the bistro Bonvivant opened in 2015, it got great reviews. It took me a while to get there, and, when I finally did, I wondered if it is standing up to the reputation of its early days
Fulgurances
Lightning Strikes a Second Time
Three young food-loving entrepreneurs recently opened a new kind of restaurant in Paris as a springboard for talented new chefs. Its name, Fulgurances, is a reference to lightning: they hope to strike their customers with a lightning bolt of joy every time they encounter a new chef.
Merci Patron!
All’s Fair in Love and Class War
François Ruffin is being called the French Michael Moore, and for good reason. The beginning of his documentary, Merci Patron! (Thanks, Boss!), is a pure ripoff of Moore’s Roger & Me, with Ruffin going to the headquarters of the LVMH … Read More
La Cantine de l’Embuscade
Anarchy Defeated, Ambushed by Offal
My friend Connie felt like she was being ambushed by offal when she glanced at the menu at L’Embuscade, a new restaurant that has replaced a neighborhood institution, the anarchist restaurant Le Maldoror, of which no traces remain – nary a political tract hangs on walls that were once papered with them.
Champeaux
Vive Champeaux, À Bas la Canopée!
A recent article in The Guardian called the Canopée, the new roof over the Forum des Halles in the center of Paris, a “custard-colored flop.” I’d be more inclined to call it a regurgitated-custard-colored flop; custard doesn’t deserve such treatment.
Mamagoto
Playtime Is Over, Let the Fun Begin!
There was nothing really wrong with the restaurant Playtime, which used to occupy the space that is now home to Mamagoto, not far from the Gare de l’Est. The food was very good and the decor attractive.
Elle
Scary Effects of Flat Affect
Paul Verhoeven’s Elle is a scary film, not so much because of the sickening violence and twisted sexuality – hey, we’re used to that – or because of its use of horror-film tropes – “Don’t do that,” you scream silently … Read More
Za
Digital-Era Automat: Gimmicks Galore
The dining room at Za.It sounds like tons of fun. You take a seat at one of the long tables at the new restaurant Za (design by Philippe Starck; seats 128!), under the just-inaugurated new roof (called “La Canopé”) over the renovated Forum des Halles in the heart of Paris and slap your smartphone down on the numbered spot on the countertop in front of you.
Sunset
Unexpected Pleasures of Lunch in a Trendy Bar
The front dining room at Sunset.You would be forgiven for doubting the possibility of getting a good meal at this trendy 18th-arrondissement restaurant and bar with the California-style name Sunset, but you would be very wrong. I recently had an excellent lunch there with a friend.