Richard Hesse
Le Garde Robe
Le Garde Robe offers a refreshing alternative to three-course meals. There are times when instead of savoring some majestic creation by a great chef you would rather just chill out at a little street-side table and jaw with friends while … Read More
Aux Crieurs de Vin
A convivial spot for lunch in Troyes. I try to make a habit of little out-of-town excursions to see art exhibitions, the sort of one-day break that is worth several days’ holiday. These jaunts can take me as far … Read More
Le Café qui Parle
Le Café qui Parle is worth a trek to the far side of the Butte Montmartre. Pros: Original dishes made with good quality ingredients; nice decor; great staff; outdoor seating available. Cons: Might be a bit noisy with a … Read More
Frenchie
Sidewalk table at Frenchie, a new Paris bistro worth knowing about. Pros: Excellent food at wallet-friendly prices; fine, shortish wine list with a good sprinkling of non-French wines Cons: Nothing worth mentioning, apart from the loud music issuing from the … Read More
Les Fines Gueules
The asparagus with white truffles looked like an abstract painting. Pros: A delight in serving well-sourced products (Desnoyers again), pleasant surroundings Cons: A slightly ditzy waitress, who was so nice and new to the job that her faux pas were … Read More
All They Think about Is Food
ALL THEY THINK ABOUT IS FOODA recent report indicated that the French eat and sleep for longer than anyone else in Europe. And wouldn’t you just believe it, even those havens of French elitism, the Grandes Ecoles, have their own … Read More
Wine Madness
WINE MADNESS Wine madnessThe Revue du Vin de France is organizing its annual binge drinking weekend in the Palais Brogniart (the former Paris Bourse), May 16-17, 10 a.m.-7 p.m. (Métro Bourse – don’t drive). All the wine regions are represented, … Read More
Derrière
The only restaurant in Paris where you can playping-pong between courses. Pros: Atmosphere, atmosphere Cons: Noisy cocktail shakers, patchy service In last Saturday’s Financial Times, the “Power Dressing” feature profiled Mourad Mazouz, an “Algeria-born restaurateur who has eight restaurants worldwide”. … Read More
Je Thé…me
Teapots galore adorn this lovingly run bistro. Pros: Excellent food and wine, the pride of the owners, plenty of space in pleasant surroundings Cons: None worth mentioning Je Thé…me was once, circa 1900, a tea shop and deli, apparently, and … Read More
L’Ardoise Gourmande
The lobster with sweetbreads was pricey butsuperb Pros: Pleasant decor and buzz, good service Cons: Square plates, limited wine list Believe it or not, when Bertie the Gastrohound and I turned up early at L’Ardoise Gourmande for a fivesome the … Read More